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Picture Window
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Broken Window S,TR 
Conn Route on Picture Window T 
Gossamer T,S 

Gossamer 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Piana, McMann, Whistler, Skinner - 10/89
Page Views: 5,820
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on May 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (92)
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Nearing the top of Picture Window.
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Description 

Directions to the route may be found under the 'Rock' description of Picture Window. You'll know you're there when you see folks waiting for the route.

Seriously, it took until my 6th visit to Rushmore before I caught this route with no one on it. A cool rock graced with an incredible route. Very popular and deservedly so.

Gossamer climbs the right side of the fin / arete up to, beside, and over the hole (picture window) in the rock. The start is a bit of an awkward (yet easy) move up to a block and the start of the fin. As the ground drops off beneath the climb, it is wise to protect the first moves with a stopper (#10 BD?) or cam.

Once on the block, layback the fin, and start moving up clipping the bolts. With each move, the angle of the fin lessens and makes things just a bit easier. Once at the apex of the rock, you'll find 2 'quick clip' type anchors - slip the rope in & get lowered to the ground. Because of the nature of the route, it needs to be seconded to be cleaned, and rigging a TR wouldn't really work.

The climb is rated 5.7 and the moves are 5.7, but has a certain intimidation factor. A fall for the leader OR second could get a bit messy. As with so many climbs in the Black Hills, this isn't sport climbing - it is bolt protected climbing.


Protection 

4 bolts = 4 draws, probably a nut (or two) for the start.



Photos of Gossamer Slideshow Add Photo
John passing the 'window' on Gossamer
John passing the 'window' on Gossamer
Ed cruising over the window.
Ed cruising over the window.
Taking in the view.
Taking in the view.
satermo on gossamer.
satermo on gossamer.
ce on Gossamer.  Wow.
ce on Gossamer. Wow.
Peter leading this classic
Peter leading this classic
Bottom to top.  Erin = photo; Scott = climb.
Bottom to top. Erin = photo; Scott = cl...
Bottom to top.  Erin = photo; Scott = climb.
Bottom to top. Erin = photo; Scott = cl...
Bottom to top.  Erin = photo; Scott = climb.
Bottom to top. Erin = photo; Scott = cl...
Climbing Gossamer
Climbing Gossamer
Peter at the first bolt
BETA PHOTO: Peter at the first bolt
Bottom of Gossamer
Bottom of Gossamer
Bottom to top.  Erin = photo; Scott = climb.
Bottom to top. Erin = photo; Scott = cl...
Brenda Gossamer Summit
Brenda Gossamer Summit
July 2008
July 2008
Gossamer from bottom to top.  Photos by Erin.  Climber = Scott
Gossamer from bottom to top. Photos by Erin. Cli...
close the blinds!
close the blinds!
Taken by me (Greg Shergold), just registered so I can't put my name on it. <br /> <br />This is of the Buzz Kemper working his way up past the window of Gossamer.
Taken by me (Greg Shergold), just registered so I ...
Tom D. laying back on Gossamer.
Tom D. laying back on Gossamer.
Dan celebrating
Dan celebrating
Bottom to top.  Erin = photo; Scott = climb.
Bottom to top. Erin = photo; Scott = cl...
All you can say is... WOW...
All you can say is... WOW...
Comments on Gossamer Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 27, 2014
By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 3, 2002

This is my favorite route at Rushmore.

This is a serious lead for very short climbers. The first bolt is a stretch to reach from a comfortable stance for me, and I am 6' tall. For short people, a very thin and hard for 5.7 move must be made before clipping the bolt - yikes! Placing a nut is a very good idea as you can fall a long way after the traverse onto the shoulder before you clip that bolt.

By Angela Arp
From: Omaha Ne
Aug 12, 2002



Wonderful starter Black Hills route. Great start, gets you thinking before you even leave the ground. Kinda neat getting lowered off and looking thru the picture window.

By Jim Schedin
From: MN
Aug 14, 2002



This route is on a massive angled flake with a huge picture-window hole in the middle. Doing a layback all the way up the huge flake makes this one of the most unusual and thrilling climbs in the area.

By Peter Gram
Administrator
From: New York, NY
Oct 8, 2002



This climb definitely deserves 3 stars. I think it is great because there is no other climb anywhere like it (that I am aware of). The lieback moves are super fun too.

By Anonymous Coward
Mar 17, 2003

Yep. You can place a nut in the first small crack. Once on the small ledge below the first bolt, you may want to throw a runner over the big jug. This makes clipping the first bolt a breeze. Love the new top anchors, too!

By Just Another Anonymous User
Sep 29, 2003

If you want to protect the first moves but didn't bring gear try knotting a runner & wedging that in the cracks. I found a 'placement' that might have actually held a fall...

By chad m. davis
Aug 1, 2004

Climbed it 08/01/04 with my wife pulling the second for me. I counted only 3 bolts, maybe I blew past one but I doubt it. In the morning it was shadey (nice for a 90+ day) and cool. Gossamer is a MUST for the Dead Presidents Area.

By Peter Gram
Administrator
From: New York, NY
Oct 15, 2004

Cool photo Greg! That's an interesting perspective.

By wayniak
Jul 25, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Fun, interesting route. In the shade till late morning.

By Anonymous Coward
Aug 8, 2005

Important Safety Note: The use of top anchors for top roping should be questioned. At many sport climbing areas the top anchors are used repeatedly for toproping. Visible wear can be seen and climbers still top rope directly from the top anchors. This is a Lazy Practice that should be stopped! It takes only moments for the leader to set up the top rope using quickdraws. This saves the anchors, saves time and money and it could even save someone's life! As the last climber, take the time to rappel verses being lowered down, rappelling will help save the anchors. Please help by setting an example.

By Mark Watson
Dec 24, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Beautiful route that gets your attention right away. Don't go here on a cold windy day. The wind funnels up the draws and slams into the rock. The first time I climed the route I was worried about getting blown off. The most recent time I damn near froze. When it is nice and warm out ... well then don't pass up the opportunity to climb this one of a kind route.

By BenJammin
From: Rapid City, SD
Aug 16, 2006

I was climbing with a large group of guys and Sam Papendick was on lead, once he topped out and was on belay something happend a miss communication and Paps was dropped from just below the window, a ground pound the most gnarly shit I have seen in a long time.

By Joe M
From: Rapid City, SD
May 17, 2007

Probably the most fun route Ive ever done, anywhere! A definite must do! Very easy and very photogenic route... bring the camera!

By BIATHLON
From: Duluth Mn
Dec 29, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

There is no way you could convince me this route is not 4 stars, super classic. I remember three bolts when I did it last. Bring a camera!!!

By Donna Stumpp
Jul 11, 2009

We were just there July 8, 2009 and were very disappointed to find the first bolt chopped. Since you start mid-way up, now the first bolt is a good 40' from the ground, making this route much more dangerous than before. Definitely need some nuts or cams to protect yourself at the start now.

We'd checked this route out in 2007 when we were in the area, but weren't quite ready to try it. We were ready to go this year, but not with the new exposure. Be sure to bring some pro to make this climb reasonable, especially given the low difficulty rating.

By joelhagan
From: Rapid City, SD
Jul 12, 2009

I was on this recently...no chopped bolts then. There is only 4 bolts on this route and it has always been advisable to place a nut or cam down low.

By Floridaputz
From: Oakland Park, Florida
May 31, 2010

I just climbed this again. Sweet laybacking and just enough bolts to make it an easy lead. I would advise that you check out the shuts at the end of the climb. They have serious wear groves from T/R and or lowering. You may need to back this anchor up.

By Ayescotty9
Jun 10, 2010
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

An absolute classic route. A must do for the 5.7-8 leader in the Black Hills imho. Work your lay-back and smearing to cruise to the top. Slot a small stopper down low to protect the opener.

By AaronPosey
Aug 31, 2012

Climbed this one tonight as my second climb in the Black Hills. It was great, and I'd recommend it for anyone.

By Jason Todd
From: Ranchester, WY
Jul 27, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

If you don't like this climb, you hate America.