Gory Thumb 5.9 PG13
| 595 page views
Good page?   |
| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9 [details] |
| FA: | Jim McCarthy and Dick Williams (1954). FFA Dick Williams (1964) |
| Submitted By: | Tim Schafstall on Apr 22, 2008 |
| |
Mike starting up Gory Thumb. The climb continues ...
Add Photo  Printer View
Area closures MORE INFO >>>
2013 Peregrine Closure: Bloody Bush (5.7) to Overhanging Layback (5.7). This includes Arch, Ribs, Strictly, Shockley's and the Mac Wall. Best wishes to the nestlings.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
|
|
Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
|
|
Description Williams describes 2 pitches, but P2 is rarely done and contains some lichen. Most people rap or do P1 as a TR in conjunction with P1 of Raunchy and Wild Horses. I have not climbed P2, so cannot describe it accurately. See the Williams' guide for a complete description.
P1 - The original start was from the right edge of the small ledge with a tree; however, better climbing is had by starting from the ground and that is the way the climb is now described in the Williams' Guide.
Climb the face, angling up left to the corner and a small rooflet. Traverse right (moving past the thin crack of Wild Horses in the center of the thin white face) to the far right crack in that face. Climb up the crack (crux, sequency), then continue up easier rock past several horizontals to a nice ledge. Set up a directional, then traverse left to the pine tree belay/rap.
Location Begin on the face/arete at the far right edge of the lower Raunchy block, in a small alcove created by a corner.
Protection Standard Gunks Rack.
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 19, 2008
| It's a bit easier and positive to climb the face just right of the thin crack. |
By blah blah
Oct 25, 2009
| 2nd pitch of this climb is full value - steep 5.8 face... long, enjoyable, and fun... |
By Michal Pasniewski
Jun 20, 2011
| The beginning first 15ft is a highball problem with no pro - I could not fit any thin gear. You can connect with the Wild Horses crack, and then traverse right to follow the corner, 2 #2 C4s useful. I found the route easier than the 5.9 var. of Raunchy. |
By Steve Moulding
From: New York
Jun 8, 2012
rating: 5.9 PG13
| Climbed this (P1 only) years ago (mid 1990s?). Onsight lead in good style. I seem to recall the protection was quite thin (v. small wires). |
|
RSS Feed
1 more...
