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Mt Stuart
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Cascadian Couloir 
Direct North Ridge w/ Gendarme, The T 
Girth Pillar 
Gorillas in the Mist T 
Ice Cliff Glacier 
Ingalls Peak, East Ridge T 
Ingalls Peak, South Ridge T 
Sherpa Glacier 
South Headwall T 
Stuart Glacier Couloir T 
Upper North Ridge w/Great Gendarme T 
West Ridge T 

Gorillas in the Mist 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c Easy Snow

   
Type:  Trad, Snow, 9 pitches, 1000', Grade IV
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: July 2009
Season: Summer - Early July to Early September
Page Views: 5,401
Submitted By: blakeherrington on Oct 29, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Pitch #3 woo hoo

Description 

P1 - 5.10+ or 5.11-

Locate obvious hand and finger crack/splitter. A small ledge exists, maybe 15-25 feet above the snow or talus. Follow splitter to ledge, mantle, move right up yellow corner/chimney, and belay.

P2 - 5.9 Move left, up hanging corner, around an arete, up another hanging corner, left around another arete, and hand traverse left to bolted belay ledge.

p3 - 5.10+

Climb face holds up and left to 4" crack and slung flake/horn near large orange roofs. Follow diagonal cracks up and right to the continuation of the big corner. Might be easier in 2 pitches.

P4 - 5.10- Head up and slightly left, past Yosemite-style V-slot and finger cracks/stemming features.

p5 - 5.10 Up and Right on obvious features, past small tree, to belay on long, narrow ledge.

p6 - 5th - Move the belay rightward, well past a large detached flake. It may give the impression that the W. Ridge or top of the wall are very near. It's not.

p7 - climb up and right, mostly easy, with one 5.8ish spot 25' off the ledge. You want to get into a clean, grey, v-slot, chimney/gulley/groove.

p8 -5.8 Step right in the top of the V-groove, and follow the long corner for 60m of awesome 5.8 cracks and corners, even a small roof. Ends on finger cracks on a slab.

p9 - A short thin-hands splitter leads to lower angle ground, and one can keep climbing endless low 5th class to the summit, rappel the wall, or descend the West Ridge/West Ridge Gully.



The complete climb of Mt. Stuart to the summit might be more likely a grade V climb, compared to routes in other states. I'd give it a "IV+ " at least, but that wasn't an option here. A competent party will likely solo or simulclimb all of the terrain from the top of pitch 9 to the summit.

Movie of the first ascent of this climb

Location 

Midway between Stuart Pass and Goat Pass, a large amphitheater/wall of rock rises up from the snow. Locate a splitter hand crack (begins as twin cracks) which is slightly right a spot below large orange overhangs, encountered on pitch #3.

Protection 

2x rack of cams from fingers to #2. 1x #3 and 1x #4, one set of nuts.


Photos of Gorillas in the Mist Slideshow Add Photo
The West Face Wall (Gorillas in the Mist) is visib...
BETA PHOTO: The West Face Wall (Gorillas in the Mist) is visib...
Finger cracks on pitch #8
Finger cracks on pitch #8
TOPO!! What a piece of art...
BETA PHOTO: TOPO!! What a piece of art...
Pitch #1
Pitch #1
GITMD
GITMD

Comments on Gorillas in the Mist Add Comment
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By Mark Hudon
Jul 31, 2014

The first pitch is nice but that's about it as far as quality goes. The Monkey traverse is thick moss covering crumbly rock.

If that is your definition of "alpine rock" then have at it. Otherwise, go somewhere else.
By Rafe
Aug 29, 2014
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Easy Snow

The Monkey Traverse has apparently cleaned up significantly, and is a super fun pitch. Good Holds and good gear in a pretty wild position make this pitch a quality portion of the route. The pillar climbed to the traverse is really cool too.