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Supercrack Buttress
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Unsorted Routes:

Gorilla 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type: Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Chip Chace and Steve Levin, 1978
Page Views: 3,628
Submitted By: Dave Chenault on Nov 28, 2001
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Gorilla

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Description 

Located approx. 80 feet right of IHC, this route is a slightly left-leaning splitter on the right wall of a dihedral. It intersectes the corner crack about 30 feet from the bolt anchors. It starts as tight hands, negotiates two awesome offwidth pods, pulls through some sustained wide hands, and meets the dihedral, which is good to tight hands. A steller climb that goes on and on, you never want it to stop.


Protection 

A full 30 metre pitch. Bring 3-5 each 2, 2.5, 3, 3.5 Friends, and 2 4 Friends.



Photos of Gorilla Slideshow Add Photo
Gorilla Crack
Gorilla Crack
Mark Stroeve leading Gorilla.
Mark Stroeve leading Gorilla.
Colt cruising Gorilla Crack.
Colt cruising Gorilla Crack.
5.10a
5.10a
Comments on Gorilla Add Comment
Show which comments
By Mike Sofranko
Nov 30, 2001

If you bury a leg in one of the pods, you can get a great no-hands rest (you won't be pumped at this point, but it's a great pose.) Slightly awkward down low through the wider stuff... Nice route. I think I used a #4 camalot.

By Tavis Ricksecker
From: Bishop, ca
Oct 29, 2008
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

Not too bad if you have big mitts.

By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Oct 22, 2009
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

First Ascent from Bjornstad, 1988:

Chip Chace and Steve Levin, 1978

By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 9, 2009

how the heck does this not get 4 stars! great route and a nice warmup. the pods may be a little tricky but the route offers plenty of rest steps.