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The Witch
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Airy Interlude T 
Ankles Away T 
Brute Force T 
Entity, The T 
Gorilla Warfare T 
Green Tide T 
Igor Unchained T 
Innersanctum T 
Pegleg T 
Phosphorescent Flow T 
Pit & The Pendulum, The T 
Pizzazz T 
Pulp Friction T 
Shazam  T 
Spook Book T 
Terrorvision T 
Wicked West of the Witch T 
Witch Doctor T 

Gorilla Warfare 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Herb Laeger and Phil Goede, 9/78
Page Views: 1,733
Submitted By: Darshan Ahluwalia on Jul 17, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: Gorilla Warfare is the obvious corner in the photo...

Description 

Climb the left-facing corner, past the offwidth flare (crux) and continue on perfect hands for a long way to the anchor. Belay at the anchor. There is a second pitch which continues up the corner (5.9).

Location 

Gorilla Warfare is in the obvious corner to the right of the routes Inner Sanctum and Brute Force. It is to the left of the face that has the routes Red Snapper and Phosphorescent Flow.

Protection 

One 6"-7" piece (Green Wild Country)
Two 5"-4" pieces (Red Wild Country)
Many hand, wide-hand, and fist pieces
3 bolts at the top (as of July 07, there is an American Death Triangle through the three bolts. bring some webbing and a knife to replace it.)


Photos of Gorilla Warfare Slideshow Add Photo
Here is a picture of the death triangle at the anc...
Here is a picture of the death triangle at the anc...
The chicken wing works pretty well
The chicken wing works pretty well

Comments on Gorilla Warfare Add Comment
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By Pat C
From: Honolulu
Jul 13, 2009

Take .75's and 1's. I ran out of gear, and was running it out bad. I also had to french free to make this one. Unbelievable. My partner told me that I actually let out a sustained whimper on part of the climb.
By Pat C
From: Honolulu
Oct 19, 2009

For sure worth doing. Just bring more gear than I did. And preferably have a bit more experience... doing chimney stuff, or I don't know If you could call it that... Bring long sleeves and long pants. My partner (after belaying me for an extended period of time) actually let me know that we would never do an offwidth again. Ever. He didn't even try it. But I would say do it.
By Dustin Stephens
Jul 8, 2013
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

glorious and burly. #5/6 helpful.