All Locations > California > Lake Tahoe > Highway 50 Corr… > Phantom Spires

Gorilla Rock Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Gorilla Rock

L › R R › L A › Z

	Ant Crack, Left T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Ant Crack, Right T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Gorilla Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Ko-Ko Box T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

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Elevation:	5,811 ft
GPS:	38.788, -120.2418 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	6,400 total · 28/month
Shared By:	Aron Quiter on Jun 20, 2005
Admins:	Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

See Weather Forecast

Access Issue: Road Closure - Caldor Fire and Dirt road winter closures Details

While climbing is open, Wrights Lake Road is within the Caldor Fire closure: fs.usda.gov/eldorado/. Plan to approach from Hwy 50. In addition, Eldorado National Forest closes dirt roads during wet conditions between November and May. The main office number 530-622-5061 might help you get current conditions, which aren't always updated on the website. fs.usda.gov/detail/eldorado… When the road is closed, simply park on a pullout of Wrights Lake Road and walk the extra mile.

Description

The traditional and aid wall sits downhill from most of the other climbing in the area. The wall receives moderate amounts of traffic given the soft grades of the climbing (5.6 - 5.8), but finding the rock and the path leading to the rock can be a pain in the butt.

The wall consists of a few broken crack systems, a short chimney, and a well protected dihedral.

This rock faces south - southwest, and most of the longer climbs bake in the sum all day long.

Make life easier by rappelling off the short backside of the rock, since the bolts on the top of the rock are not situated well for pulling ropes after the long frontside rappel.

Getting There

Approach time: 10 minutes.Return time: 15 minutes all straight uphill.

From the parking area, head to the west side of the lot and take the path uphill towards the middle spire. After approximately 150 yards, the main path will head straight, and a small path will branch left around the bulge which is actually the backside of the Twin Owls. Head to the base of the Twin Owls over rough rocky terrain, and then past the final bolted route about 20 feet. From here, head directly away from the face of the Twin Owls. The trail will pickup just past a 3' diameter stump heading straight downhill towards a large rock known as True Grit. The trail leads around the left side of True Grit, and will go away into some tromped-over brush just past the climbable face of True Grit. Walk accross slope about 20 feet and the path will become apparent again heading straight downhill towards the 30' tall backside of Gorilla Rock.

Walk around the left side of the rock to the downhill side where the 3 longest climbs await.