Gorilla Rock Rock Climbing
Koko Box on Gorilla Rock
The traditional and aid wall sits downhill from most of the other climbing in the area. The wall receives moderate amounts of traffic given the soft grades of the climbing (5.6 - 5.8), but finding the rock and the path leading to the rock can be a pain in the butt.
The wall consists of a few broken crack systems, a short chimney, and a well protected dihedral.
This rock faces south - southwest, and most of the longer climbs bake in the sum all day long.
Make life easier by rappelling off the short backside of the rock, since the bolts on the top of the rock are not situated well for pulling ropes after the long frontside rappel.
Approach time: 10 minutes.Return time: 15 minutes all straight uphill.
From the parking area, head to the west side of the lot and take the path uphill towards the middle spire. After approximately 150 yards, the main path will head straight, and a small path will branch left around the bulge which is actually the backside of the Twin Owls. Head to the base of the Twin Owls over rough rocky terrain, and then past the final bolted route about 20 feet. From here, head directly away from the face of the Twin Owls. The trail will pickup just past a 3' diameter stump heading straight downhill towards a large rock known as True Grit. The trail leads around the left side of True Grit, and will go away into some tromped-over brush just past the climbable face of True Grit. Walk accross slope about 20 feet and the path will become apparent again heading straight downhill towards the 30' tall backside of Gorilla Rock.
Walk around the left side of the rock to the downhill side where the 3 longest climbs await.
Climbing Season For the Phantom Spires area.
Weather station 12.1 miles from here
4 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',1]
Classic Climbing Routes in Gorilla Rock
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Gorilla Rock
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Gorilla Rock:
Featured Route For Gorilla Rock
Ant Crack, Left 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
: Tahoe Vicinity
: ... : Gorilla Rock
The punchline to the route name is only an ant could climb the "crack" for most of this line... though it opens up and takes fingers or toes at the very end. The crux moves are face and use smearing. Start by attaining a ledge low on the face. Walk it left (past Ant Crack, Right) to the next fracture. Work up the crack line, using things on the face, resting at the occasional tiny Phantom Spires Patented Knob. When the crack opens enough to take finger tips near the finish, the going gets easy....[more] Browse More Classics in CA
Latest Regional Forum Messages
By Justin Johnsen
From: Sacramento, CA
Apr 23, 2013
Oops, forgot this one!