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Gorilla Milk Direct 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,032
Submitted By: Ben Mottinger on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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BETA PHOTO: Franktown Brewery. Strawberry Jam. Gorilla Milk Di...

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Description 

Climb exactly behind the tree in the picture, where the route actually lies. It is a nice route but is pretty difficult for the grade--fun route. Stay right up the middle of the face.

Protection 

Flexible cams, tri-cams for pockets. This may be toproped, but the setup [was] complicated--there are no solid trees, and only an old 1/4" bolt that's not in line for this route. Especially long slings or an extra rope might help plus some wide crack pro as anchors.

Eds. There is a 2 bolt anchor.


Photos of Gorilla Milk Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Jesse Mascarenas.
Jesse Mascarenas.
Me at the crux of the Gorilla Milk  Direct.
Me at the crux of the Gorilla Milk Direct.
Ashley Gann.
Ashley Gann.
1. Pie In The Sky, 10+. 2. Strawberry Jam, 5. 3. G...
BETA PHOTO: 1. Pie In The Sky, 10+. 2. Strawberry Jam, 5. 3. G...

Comments on Gorilla Milk Direct Add Comment
Show which comments
By Anonymous Coward
Jul 7, 2001

Some friends and I TRed this today (7/7). An 8-foot sling around a flake, the mystery eyebolt and a #5 tricam for backup worked well for an anchor.
By Darin Lang
Mar 21, 2003
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Good route. We used the aforementioned slung flake, a #3 Camalot, and the bolt to set up the TR. I don't think the route can go "straight up the middle" and stay at the 5.9 grade, though. You will have to skirt a lower blank spot and then rejoin the line at around 1/3 of the way up, just below the climber's location in the photo below.

Definitely on the harder side of 5.9, at least for one move.
By kevin jenkins
Jun 30, 2004
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

I would say that this deserves a solid .9, but I think the comment is correct - going straight up the middle is a good way to keep this below .9. On either side of the middle there are some decent variations but none that would push it more than a .10, so have fun and explore!
By Jeremy Hakes
From: Golden, Colorado
May 28, 2008

Someone removed the two hangers from the bolts at the top of this route. The bolts are still there, just need new hangers, and evidently epoxy on the nuts so no one else removes them again.
By Tom Hanson
May 28, 2008

Thanks for the update Jeremy. I'll try to remember to bring some new hangers and nuts next time I'm in the area.
This is not unusual for Castlewood, with such easy access to the top of the routes.
I've had dozens of hangers stolen over the years and it really sucks.
I don't have the extra finances to re-equip routes any more, so it is getting tougher to maintain fixed anchors.
By Mike Carrington
From: Centenntial
Jul 19, 2009

I replaced the hangers today.
By Nick Leuck
Feb 16, 2015
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I agree that there is a rather blank area a little under the halfway mark that you'll have to go to one side or the other before rejoining the route on the middle of the face. Two bolts on the corner require some longer slings or a static piece to get the MP over the second ledge at the top (the double lengths we had were slightly too short). One bolt was a spinner (2/14/15) but otherwise looked good. Fun route, though. You can use the same anchor for Gorilla Milk and Gorilla Milk Direct. There is a 5th class scramble just around the corner to the north and an easier one (4th/5th?) further north yet.
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