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Gorilla Milk Direct 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,681
Submitted By: Ben Mottinger on Jan 1, 2001
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Ashley Gann.
Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>


Climb exactly behind the tree in the picture, where the route actually lies. It is a nice route but is pretty difficult for the grade--fun route. Stay right up the middle of the face.


Flexible cams, tri-cams for pockets. This may be toproped, but the setup [was] complicated--there are no solid trees, and only an old 1/4" bolt that's not in line for this route. Especially long slings or an extra rope might help plus some wide crack pro as anchors.

Eds. There is a 2 bolt anchor.

Photos of Gorilla Milk Direct Slideshow Add Photo
1. Pie In The Sky, 10+. <br />2. Strawberry Jam, 5. <br />3. Gorilla Milk Direct, 9. <br />4. Gorilla Milk, 7+.
BETA PHOTO: 1. Pie In The Sky, 10+.
2. Strawberry Jam, 5.
3. G...
Me at the crux of the Gorilla Milk  Direct.
Me at the crux of the Gorilla Milk Direct.
Jesse Mascarenas.
Jesse Mascarenas.
Franktown Brewery. <br />Strawberry Jam. <br />Gorilla Milk Direct. <br />Gorilla Milk. <br /> <br />
BETA PHOTO: Franktown Brewery.
Strawberry Jam.
Gorilla Milk Di...
Comments on Gorilla Milk Direct Add Comment
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By Anonymous Coward
Jul 7, 2001

Some friends and I TRed this today (7/7). An 8-foot sling around a flake, the mystery eyebolt and a #5 tricam for backup worked well for an anchor.

By Darin Lang
Mar 21, 2003
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

Good route. We used the aforementioned slung flake, a #3 Camalot, and the bolt to set up the TR. I don't think the route can go "straight up the middle" and stay at the 5.9 grade, though. You will have to skirt a lower blank spot and then rejoin the line at around 1/3 of the way up, just below the climber's location in the photo below.

Definitely on the harder side of 5.9, at least for one move.

By kevin jenkins
Jun 30, 2004
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c

I would say that this deserves a solid .9, but I think the comment is correct - going straight up the middle is a good way to keep this below .9. On either side of the middle there are some decent variations but none that would push it more than a .10, so have fun and explore!

By Jeremy Hakes
From: Golden, Colorado
May 28, 2008

Someone removed the two hangers from the bolts at the top of this route. The bolts are still there, just need new hangers, and evidently epoxy on the nuts so no one else removes them again.

By Tom Hanson
May 28, 2008

Thanks for the update Jeremy. I'll try to remember to bring some new hangers and nuts next time I'm in the area.
This is not unusual for Castlewood, with such easy access to the top of the routes.
I've had dozens of hangers stolen over the years and it really sucks.
I don't have the extra finances to re-equip routes any more, so it is getting tougher to maintain fixed anchors.

By Mike Carrington
From: Centenntial
Jul 19, 2009

I replaced the hangers today.