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Super classic. There are two ways to approach the upper section. I am describing the original start, which takes the most direct line. This way also makes the route best done as one long pitch.
Start in the huge dihedral downhill from The Green Adjective. This is also the same start as Touch Up and Perhaps.
Climb the dihedral, which is very moderate for the first fifty feet or so. Continue up through slightly increased difficulty to a big undercling flake.
Traverse left with powerful liebacks (first 5.9+ crux, not as hard as it looks), which quickly gets to the second crux, a hand crack through a bulge. The hand crack has bomber hands, but is awkward for the feet.
Finally, traverse right ten feet on good holds to the anchor. Make sure to protect the second through all the traverses.
Standard rack. This is a long pitch, so bring quite a bit of gear. A #3 camalot is good for the undercling traverse, and save a #2 camalot size for the crux bulging hand crack.
Double-rope rap directly to the ground. Alternatively, single rope rap to the fixed anchors on Perhaps, then one more single rope rap to the ground.
Andrew pulling through the first crux on Gordon's ...
Climbing the massive dihedral on Gordon's Hangover...
BETA PHOTO: Perhaps, Gordon's Hangover, Touch Up
Approaching the undercling flake, Gordon's Hangove...
Powering through the flake.
Gordons Hangover flake
Entering the overhang.
Kenton following Gordon's Hangover
|Comments on Gordon's Hangover
|By Nathan Fisher|
Sep 24, 2005
The other way to start Gordon's Hangover is to do the 1st pitch of Perhaps and then come up the crack to the main part of Gordon's. Again, another great climb with committment. The initial crux (the bulgy layback) looks harder than it is, and is way intimidating. However, as Peter says, the bulging hand crack is tough. My partner could not do it easily.
From: electric lady land
Jan 25, 2006
good line. a little crumbly about mid way up. consider pro right after the bulge for the follower. how about that step across to the anchor!
|By Lee Gitlin|
Sep 26, 2006
Fabulous route. We did it as one pitch, although rope drag can be an issue. The route starts out easy, then gets progressively more difficult all the way to the anchors. The cruxes first feature a massive flake requiring sidepulling and high stepping, followed by a steep fist crack (I had to step out onto the face at right to finish). In all, worthy of a 4-star rating.
If this was the only route available, it would still be worth the boulder hopping slog.
|By Nathan Fisher|
Sep 27, 2006
Having climbed both variations of Gordon's, the Original long one pitch version is the best, if rope drag can be controlled. That is why I knocked this version down to three stars...not as sustained and fun.
|By Nathan Fisher|
Sep 27, 2006
Having climbed both variations of Gordon's, the Original long one pitch version is the best, if rope drag can be controlled.
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Oct 16, 2006
Pretty mellow until intimidating undercling traverse, but good feet and bomber pro. Hand crack crux is akward on the feet and requires some commitment. Protect second for traverse to anchors.
|By Tyler King|
From: Salt Lake, UT
Aug 7, 2008
If touch up is a 5.9+ than Gordons Hangover is a 5.10- or maybe a 10a, I'm not sure of the difference! Great crack with some awesome moves. The undercling traverse is sweet and the hand jam on the bulge above is difficult if your not a hand jamming expert, especially because of the awkward feet. As 1 pitch it is long and excellent!
- EDIT: Ok so after talking to tenesmus I thought I should add this disclaimer: The crux on this climb will feel harder if you are not super solid with hand jam technique, otherwise it does seem to fall in the 9+ category along with it's neighbor "Touch Up"
- Edit 2: Even after being a ton better at jams the bulge is still hard. being taller would help a ton!
|By Andrew Gram|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 19, 2008
I'm good at hand jamming and not good at face climbing. To me, Gordon's felt like 5.9 only because of the traverse, and the upper part felt fairly easy. Touch Up felt like 5.10. Go figure.
|By Skyler Penrod|
Oct 14, 2008
All I can say is slings! I ran out at just under the flake and the rope drag became atrocious. Even clipping the gear in the hand crack was difficult. Sweet climb though a definite must do.
|By Perin Blanchard|
From: Orem, UT
May 24, 2009
If you happen to drag a #4 Camalot along with you, you can get rid of it at the top of the "undercling flake." That way your second has to haul it through the crux :-)
|By Stan Pitcher|
From: SLC, UT
Sep 22, 2009
The long one pitch version is great but the climbing getting to the flake on the two pitch version is very good too. Plus the first pitch of Perhaps is a great lead for a beginning trad leader. If you do as one pitch - clip everything long up to the under-cling if possible.
|By Trad Nanny|
Nov 13, 2009
Absolute classic. Remember some slings for the undercling crux. I tried to jam the crux crack but laying back with high feet seemed best. Enjoy!
|By Charlie S|
From: Ogden, UT
Feb 11, 2012
Watch rope drag coming out of the overhang! While you might think the first overhang is the crux, it's not. Put decent runners on it or you'll regret it 10 feet later.
|By Alex Quitiquit|
From: Salt Lake City
May 6, 2012
Super Classic... Hand Jam or flail.
Watched someone blow a #2 cam and rip the flake/jug about 2/3's the way up Gordon's Direct. The toaster sized block almost crushed his belayer and another party on the deck... sketchy.
From: park city
Jul 29, 2012
I cannot believe how incredible this climb was! and how secure I actually felt! Such a wonderful climb!!!