Gordon's Hangover 

The other way to start Gordon's Hangover is to do the 1st pitch of Perhaps and then come up the crack to the main part of Gordon's. Again, another great climb with committment. The initial crux (the bulgy layback) looks harder than it is, and is way intimidating. However, as Peter says, the bulging hand crack is tough. My partner could not do it easily.

good line. a little crumbly about mid way up. consider pro right after the bulge for the follower. how about that step across to the anchor!

Fabulous route. We did it as one pitch, although rope drag can be an issue. The route starts out easy, then gets progressively more difficult all the way to the anchors. The cruxes first feature a massive flake requiring sidepulling and high stepping, followed by a steep fist crack (I had to step out onto the face at right to finish). In all, worthy of a 4-star rating.

If this was the only route available, it would still be worth the boulder hopping slog.

Having climbed both variations of Gordon's, the Original long one pitch version is the best, if rope drag can be controlled. That is why I knocked this version down to three stars...not as sustained and fun.

Having climbed both variations of Gordon's, the Original long one pitch version is the best, if rope drag can be controlled.

Pretty mellow until intimidating undercling traverse, but good feet and bomber pro. Hand crack crux is akward on the feet and requires some commitment. Protect second for traverse to anchors.

If touch up is a 5.9+ than Gordons Hangover is a 5.10- or maybe a 10a, I'm not sure of the difference! Great crack with some awesome moves. The undercling traverse is sweet and the hand jam on the bulge above is difficult if your not a hand jamming expert, especially because of the awkward feet. As 1 pitch it is long and excellent!

• EDIT: Ok so after talking to tenesmus I thought I should add this disclaimer: The crux on this climb will feel harder if you are not super solid with hand jam technique, otherwise it does seem to fall in the 9+ category along with it's neighbor "Touch Up"

• Edit 2: Even after being a ton better at jams the bulge is still hard. being taller would help a ton!

I'm good at hand jamming and not good at face climbing. To me, Gordon's felt like 5.9 only because of the traverse, and the upper part felt fairly easy. Touch Up felt like 5.10. Go figure.

All I can say is slings! I ran out at just under the flake and the rope drag became atrocious. Even clipping the gear in the hand crack was difficult. Sweet climb though a definite must do.

If you happen to drag a #4 Camalot along with you, you can get rid of it at the top of the "undercling flake." That way your second has to haul it through the crux :-)

The long one pitch version is great but the climbing getting to the flake on the two pitch version is very good too. Plus the first pitch of Perhaps is a great lead for a beginning trad leader. If you do as one pitch - clip everything long up to the under-cling if possible.

Absolute classic. Remember some slings for the undercling crux. I tried to jam the crux crack but laying back with high feet seemed best. Enjoy!

Watch rope drag coming out of the overhang! While you might think the first overhang is the crux, it's not. Put decent runners on it or you'll regret it 10 feet later.

Super Classic... Hand Jam or flail.

Watched someone blow a #2 cam and rip the flake/jug about 2/3's the way up Gordon's Direct. The toaster sized block almost crushed his belayer and another party on the deck... sketchy.

I cannot believe how incredible this climb was! and how secure I actually felt! Such a wonderful climb!!!