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Just right of the flake on Gordon's Hangover is a seam (thin crack) that works to the chains. A reachy initial move leads to thin fingers and good feet, then right at the bolt, one must reach again. Well protected crux move.
1 bolt on the route, some small nuts, and a couple of medium cams. Plus, whatever you will need to get to the start as it shares a lot with Gordon's Hangover.
Greg Miller gettin' an early March lap on Gordon's...
|Comments on Gordon's Direct
|By Scott McLeod|
Mar 12, 2007
OK, first of all, figuring this out is part of the challenge, excitement, and fun, so the above route description has a little too much beta in my opinion. Beta is best included in the comments sections, and even better if it has a **BETA** type warning.
But that aside, I am 5'6", and can do all of these moves. It is exciting and at times reachy, but never height dependent.
Jun 19, 2007
Just did this again today and I gotta say you can sew it up really well. Super fun climbing but I don't know where its R? Scott's right about the over-beta in the description.
|By David Shiembob|
From: slc, ut
Sep 6, 2007
Wow, great route. Airy exposure as you're working the thin locks with 140' or so of rope out beneath you. Couldn't figure out the top moves so I blew the onsight, but I think I know what to do now, looking forward to getting back on it. There seemed to be a space where there wasn't good pro, pretty much where Ruckmans marked 5.9R on the topo, or maybe they're worried about swinging into the dihedral or something? It doesn't seem to deserve an R rating, especially by LCC standards! Classy variation, too bad you've got to miss out on the lieback flake and upper handcrack on Gordon's to do it.
|By Lizzy Scully|
Sep 20, 2007
Hmm, well, I think perhaps it could have R potential if you are not dialed into placing gear. It's certainly not an 11b I'd recommend to a beginning 5.11 leader. However, I did find plenty of gear placements that I more or less felt comfortable with.
I didn't feel it was height dependent. I am short.
|By Drew Bedford|
From: Wasatch Back, UT
Mar 30, 2008
First ascent was by Steve Hong, Steve Carruthers. Sometime in the late '80s
|By Michael Stearns|
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Oct 1, 2008
Does anyone know if the first ascent party placed the bolt?
|By Christian "crisco" Burrell|
From: PG, Utah
Dec 19, 2008
Agreed with the "R" rating thing...It is not a REAL "R" if you have the gear dialed. It is a good idea to put it all together on TR after doing Gordon's Hangover. Then go for the redpoint send.
|By Tim Wolfe|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 16, 2011
How did this get an R rating? Lots of good gear. Great route with a totally well protected final crux
|By Spencer Weiler|
From: SLC, UT
Jun 24, 2011
Agree with Tim. Bomber micronut placement right off the pillar then tricky but adequate gear throughout with good stances. The end is great, standing on a small foothold to reach way out left to a jug with the bolt a decent ways below. Fun! Not R.