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Wooden Hammer 

Gordian Knot 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 4 pitches, 220'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 893
Submitted By: jtwalter on Oct 31, 2010
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Description 

Formerly a trad line that was rated 5.9R, Gordian Knot has been retro-bolted in the past few years after a fall produced a heinous injury. A pitch has also been added to the top of the wall.

P1 - Start to the left of the house sized rock at the base of Sticky Revelations and climb past 3 bolts to a ledge with a 3 bolt anchor. 5.7, 3 bolts.

P2 - Climb through thin holds to the roof using the right side of the arete to pull over, continue through a awkward moves to two rap anchors. 5.10a, 7 bolts.

P3 - Continue up over another small roof to the top a large ledge. 5.10b, 3 bolts.

P4 - The last pitch involves long reaches with little to no feet for a the first two bolts before the holds get better. Climb past 3 bolts to the top of the wall. 5.10d, 3 bolts.

Recommend running pitch 2 and 3 together. If pitch 4 was as fun as the rest of the route this would get 4 stars.


Location 

Gordian Knot climbs the arete just to the left of Sticky Revelations. It starts on the left side of the large rock formation to the left of the start for Sticky Revelations.


Protection 

10 quickdraws, plus whatever you need for the anchors.

Descend by rapping Sticky Revelations



Photos of Gordian Knot Slideshow Add Photo
Leading the crux of the 2nd pitch.
Leading the crux of the 2nd pitch.
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By boltclippinfool
Dec 7, 2012
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

Great route! Cool moves and great position, especially on pitch 2. Start on the first pitch of Presence (5.9) then link pitch 2 & 3, bring a couple of long runners... awesome! 4th pitch is 5.hard, but you can bump 20ft. right to the anchors of Sticky Revelations for a final pitch of 10a.

By Dillon Vesper
Nov 16, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

started with the first 2 pitches on sticky revelations than decided to climb the 4th pitch of this climb on our last instead of the 10a. very tough last pitch (especially for a shorty) moves not so straight forward, id give the last pitch closer to 11a/b rating.