AI1 Mod. Snow
|Type: ||Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 400', Grade II|
|Consensus: ||AI1 [details]|
|Season: ||Early Summer|
|Page Views: ||319|
|Submitted By: ||Brian Scoggins on Jun 17, 2012|
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Looking south towards the Snowy Range rock climbin...
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One of the shorter proper couloirs in the Snowies. Climb between the couloir between two rock pillars, passing an island of rock near the top. Climb increases in steepness from about 35 to 40-45 degrees throughout the climb.
From the Mirror Lake Trailhead, hike along the Lakes Trail until just north of Lookout Lake. Scramble and bushwhack to the northern margin of Old Main, and traverse north until you reach the base of couloir that looks like either a goose bending its head around a rock near the top, or a fishhook (depending on the season). Climb the couloir, then descend by turning north, tagging the summit of Medicine Bow Peak and taking the Sugar Loaf trail back to the Lakes trail. Alternately, turn south and take the Medicine Bow Trail down to Lake Marie, which is longer.
Pickets and flukes if you rope up. Start early, as the couloir faces due east.
Brook kicking steps about halfway up the couloir.
|By Brian Scoggins|
From: Eugene, OR
Jun 17, 2012
When we got on it, June 16, 2012, about 4 inches of snow covered very good ice in many spots.
This couloir seems to lose its cornice fairly early in the season, a rarity for Snowy Range couloirs. Its also over very fast.