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Goosehead

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Chung King Corner T 
Credibility Gap T 
Death Warmed Over S 
Glide Path T 
Golden Egg, The S 
Goosed But Smilin' T 
Morgue, The S 
Palms Down T 
Scrambled Egg S 
Zombie Flanders S 

Goosehead 


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Page Views: 8,856
Administrators: Greg Opland, James DeRoussel, JJ Schlick, Hendrixson, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: zach on May 30, 2006
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on top of goosehead

Description 

40-90 foot climbs with pretty good exposure. Right next to the road.


Getting There 

One mile past the Windy Point vista. Easy to find, looks like a goose's head.


10 Total Routes


['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',4],['5.11',1],['5.12',2],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',1],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Goosehead:
The Golden Egg   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   
Palms Down   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 110'   
Credibility Gap   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Goosed But Smilin'   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c     Trad, 2 pitches, 150'   
Glide Path   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Browse More Classics in Goosehead

Featured Route For Goosehead
Credibility Gap - Only Left and Center variations are shown!

Credibility Gap 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b  AZ : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : ... : Goosehead
I did the center variation. Delicate start over bulge into crack. Follow fantastic slightly larger than finger crack up to bolt. Clip the bolt and choose your own adventure. I've heard the left variation might be slightly easier, but don't quote me on that! Regardless, this is an amazing route, great gear & hard climbing. Continue upwards, eventually traversing right. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in AZ

Photos of Goosehead Slideshow Add Photo
Solo Aiding "The Bill" on 4/17/10
Solo Aiding "The Bill" on 4/17/10
Mark starting on Knights of the Wrong Tissue (5.12-).  I hope Nick is using a GriGri!
Mark starting on Knights of the Wrong Tissue (5.12...
Dave belays John on The Bill (Aid Route) <br /> <br />www.flickr.com/thedan86
Dave belays John on The Bill (Aid Route)

www.flic...
Dave Hein aiding 'The Bill' on Goosehead <br /> <br />flickr.com/thedan86
Dave Hein aiding 'The Bill' on Goosehead

flickr.c...
Sunset on top of the Goose Head via Golden Egg  <br /> <br />Photo by Nate
Sunset on top of the Goose Head via Golden Egg

P...
Ben exploring around the Goosehead. Unfortunately we didn't have time to climb it. Next time perhaps.
Ben exploring around the Goosehead. Unfortunately ...
Comments on Goosehead Add Comment
Show which comments
By Joseph Stover
From: Batesville, AR
Jun 12, 2007

SQII lists a bolted 5.7 on the Phallus. I was down there today and I am pretty sure I was at the Phallus because I saw two routes that looked like 11's and shared the same start on the side facing the highway, but the slabby ridge where I thought the 7 was didn't seem to have any trace of a route on it. Is there a misprint or was it chopped... maybe it is on one of the other formations??? I didn't really see places for gear on that ridge.

By A.P.T.
From: Truckee,Ca
Jun 12, 2007

Had the same experience there several year's ago. Could not locate any moderate on the "Phallus."

By jbak
Jun 12, 2007

All right ! Masters of the obscure.

If you are looking at MUSTANG RANCH on the PHALLUS, go down to the toe of the formation, then continue on around a bit to the SE side. There is a crack system leading up to the ridge. The start is fairly strenuous (5.9 ?) jamming up these cracks to gain the ridge. Then you basically solo the ridge (one nut I think) to gain the summit. I don't remember any bolts at all. A justly obscure route and not a place to take your beginner friends.

By joshf
From: missoula, mt
Nov 14, 2007

does anybody know about the line that goes through the roof? I've heard there is an old aid route there...

By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Nov 14, 2007

Last and only time I checked a bolt ladder of old quarter-inchers was still there. IIRC they sort of ran out before the actual top-out, or maybe I just couldn't see the last ones. Just getting to the ladder seemed like a slightly dicey traverse too? I'll check if the Steiger guide has anything on it..

You can see them as you drive by if you look closely enough (not recommended for the driver hehe)

By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Nov 15, 2007

Steiger guide says roughly: "The Bill" - 5.6 A1-A4 (depending on whether the old bolts shear off). Bolt ladder then some easy free climbing. A couple of aid moves to get to the ledge where the bolt ladder starts.

By joshf
From: missoula, mt
Nov 17, 2007

Thanks, sounds like a lot of fun or a bad day...

By Dwook
Mar 1, 2010

Just did the aid route under the bill...What an awesome bolt ladder. I would say if your bored and you want to practice some aid this is a great spot to practice. The bolts are in very good condition, all the death bolts have been replaced. Major props to whomever hand drilled these bolts...That must have been tiring. Btw, you can easily free climb the first part up to the belay ledge and you can do it in one pitch with minimal rope drag.