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 ADVANCED
Goosehead
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Chung King Corner T 
Credibility Gap T 
Death Warmed Over S 
Glide Path T 
Golden Egg, The S 
Goosed But Smilin' T 
Morgue, The S 
Scrambled Egg S 
Squeezing The Lemmon S 
Visitors, The S 
Yuck Crack S 
Zombie Flanders S 

Goosed But Smilin' 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Steve Grossmann, John Steiger,'76
Page Views: 548
Submitted By: 1Eric Rhicard on Apr 11, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

Crux is down low and I remember being scared when I lead it (pre micro cams). After the early moves it eases up a bit. Second pitch is probably R I did not do it.

Location 

The farthest left route on the east face of the goosehead.

Protection 

Fixed pin and standard rack.


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By MJW
From: Boise, ID
Mar 12, 2010

Long time since I've been on this beaut. I remember a 1-1.5 rigid friend above the pin. The first 25-30ft is in your face. Cool crux moves and great crack climbing above. You can step right into Cred Gap/finish or belay. Second pitch is classic Mt.Lemmon funkness. Step out left to the airy crack system and head to the top. Feels like Stronghold climbing. Probably no harder than 10b but you will hold on hard.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Apr 11, 2010

Finally repointed this today after hanging on it once 30 years ago. The pin is still there but a little bush was hiding it. Down climbed and jumped on it a number of times to test it. A good purple Camalot goes in just below it so have a second one for the slot a body length above the pin. Found it to be tenuous and challenging and a little spooky as I don't really trust fixed pins much. Didn't do the second pitch as we didn't look at the topo so we ended up finishing on the top of Credibility Gap which was fun.