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Tunnel Mountain
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Gooseberry 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 7 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Lloyd MacKay, Ken Baker (1967)
Season: Spring to fall
Page Views: 1,018
Submitted By: Jordan Ramey on Jun 5, 2011

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BETA PHOTO: Climber belaying second up pitch 5 (bolted pitch) ...

Description 

A modern mixed classic with good pro and only moderate rockfall hazard. The route is often guide and can become crowded on the weekend. Extreme care should be taken if a party is below you to avoid sending rocks down onto them!

  • Pitch 1: 30m, 5.4 Head up the path of least resistance at the GB carve marking the start of the climb. Follow the right for a short pitch clipping two bolts on the way up. Nice ledge w/ 2 bolt belay just past a shrub.

  • Pitch 2: 40m, 5.6, Up and left to circumvent the steep stuff. Aim for the right facing corner/crack that takes excellent pro and follow to the ledge with trees. Good anchor on the wall left of the trees. Try to avoid putting more rope grooves into the tree.

  • Pitch 3: 45m, 5.8 All bolts, no gear. Hard left traverse up the ramp and around the corner. Follow the line of bolts straight up the face on the left, which keep you out of the somewhat loose dihedral. Somewhat improbable looking at first, but it is indeed 5.8 and the holds are bomber after a couple insecure moves with a bolt at your chest.

  • Pitch 4: 25m, 5.6 head left up the weakness clipping fixed pins as you go.

  • Pitch 5: 50m, 5.8 All bolts, no gear unless going hard right to the original gooseberry dihedral. Up and right being careful to mind the blocks, some of which would be really bad to pull off for the leader and belayer. Follow the bolts up the super solid face on classic incut edges. An excellent pitch with great position. Alternatively, keep following the ramp up from the belay and climb the left facing dihedral with trad gear.

  • Pitch 6: 30m, 5.6 Left up the weakness. Good gear abounds, if somewhat finicky. This pitch is steep and no gimme for 5.7!

  • Pitch 7: 30m, 5.7 original chimney finish (slick!). Go straight up the chimney clipping one bolt and either head up into the trees to belay or skirt left after the chimney for a 2 bolt chain anchor.

  • Pitch 7 alternate: 5.7, head up the chimney clipping the bolt and continuing on several meters higher till you reach a prominent shelf on the left you can traverse hard left onto and over to reach a fixed pin. Head up easier ground to the 2 bolt anchor on top. I haven't tried this, but it seems plausible and was on our topo.

  • Pitch 7 alternate sport finish: Head up and clip the bolt in the chimney then traverse hard left onto the face and follow the bolts. Felt hard 5.9 to me with delicate footwork and thin sidepulls, but all there and bolts where you need 'em. I'd recommend it.

Location 

Approach: Head across the open field towards the cliff and locate the large manhole cover (sorta hidden behind bushes. Pick up the trail and follow it SW. At the first Y, take a right, then angle right at the second Y. At an intersection, keep heading straight for the cliff. When you reach the base skirt south (climbers left) along the base until you find an obvious beat down spot where the climb starts in a 5.6 groove. Most notable, there is a heart shape carved in the rock just right of the route and the route itself has "GB" carved at the start. Kinda lame, but it makes finding it easy.

Descent: head uphill for a few meters from the topout and you'll cross the tourist trail, head right for about 5 minutes to reach the summit and stunning views (if so desired). Then head down the tourist trail to the road and walk the road back to your car around the north side of Tunnel Mountain (about 30 minutes from top of Mt to car)

Protection 

Standard rockies rack: Double set of cams, small to 2", one 3", 12 slings and draws for the "sport" pitches.


Photos of Gooseberry Slideshow Add Photo
Someone else's topo I updated. I think it's from D...
BETA PHOTO: Someone else's topo I updated. I think it's from D...
Marking at the start of Gooseberry
BETA PHOTO: Marking at the start of Gooseberry
Heart carving just right of the Gooseberry route
BETA PHOTO: Heart carving just right of the Gooseberry route
Pitch 1 of Gooseberry (5.8, 7 pitches)
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 1 of Gooseberry (5.8, 7 pitches)
Gooseberry is about here and likely trends around ...
Gooseberry is about here and likely trends around ...
Coming up the steep bolted pitch 3 5.8 bolted sect...
Coming up the steep bolted pitch 3 5.8 bolted sect...
Leading Pitch 1 of Gooseberry (5.8, 7 pitches)
Leading Pitch 1 of Gooseberry (5.8, 7 pitches)
Just topping out the bolted 5th pitch steep sectio...
Just topping out the bolted 5th pitch steep sectio...
Approach to Gooseberry, cross the field and follow...
BETA PHOTO: Approach to Gooseberry, cross the field and follow...

Comments on Gooseberry Add Comment
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By thomasg
Nov 1, 2013

I think it says on grav sports that this is now a fully bolted sport route.... can someone confirm?