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Indian Head
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Goof Proof Roof 
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Goof Proof Roof 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c C2+

   
Type:  Aid, 3 pitches, 170'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c C2+ [details]
FA: Herb Laeger, Dave Houser & Jai Watts, April 1978
Page Views: 1,996
Submitted By: Jordan Ramey on Feb 18, 2009

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Bill Sherman cleaning P2

Description 

C2F 5.8 as of 02/16/2009
Approach: 1-2 hours
Descent: 1-2 hours
South facing, so lots of sun

Goof Proof Roof is THE classic roof aid climb in Joshua Tree. It's got everything from bolts, to heads, to thin nailing, to scary free climbing. Definately a must do for the aspiring aid climber.

P1: Head, bolt, 7 heads, bolt, 4 more heads, anchor! The bolts are new fat bolts. The heads were all in good shape as of 2009_02_16. The heads are placed in drilled 1/4" or 3/8" holes. The hanging belay has lots of bolts and at least 1 new 3/8".

P1 original: Starts right of the bolt / head ladder and follows some rotten rock up easy fifth class free climbing to a beat out crack that looks more solid and takes thin pins, nuts, and cams. At the end of the crack follow the old bolts on homemade hangers left to the belay.

P2: The money pitch. Head straight up off the hanging belay and clip the nice (camo'ed) bolt right above your head to gain some fixed pins in the second tier roof crack and head up and right. Don't go straight out right from the belay on those weird 3 new bolts that are under the big roof. You want to traverse the lip of the big roof using the second tier roof. Follow fixed gear mixed with small cams until the roof ends at a nice fat 3/8" bolt. Head straight up here past a fixed head and bust a few free moves (5.6ish?) to gain the second belay at a good stance. Has good bolts, tat, and rap rings on the tat.

P3: The scary pitch. Head up and hard left. A good medium / smallish nut can be placed in the crack above the belay to protect the traverse left. Follow positive holds on loose rock for about 40' and you're done. Build a belay however you can figure it out up top. The cracks are sorta ghetto and just require a bit of thought to rig.

Apparently lots of people skip the last pitch and you can rap straight to the dirt with one 70m cord, but not positive on this.

Location 

Under the gigantic roof on Indian Head. Follows the bolt / head ladder, traverses the lip of the roof on the second roof, finishes on top of Indian Head and allows an easy walkoff.

Protection 

C2F 5.8 as of 02/16/2009

This route going clean depends on fixed heads and pins staying in place.

Clean rack:
micro cams: 10 (black - red aliens) Offsets helpful
micro TCUs
Nuts: 1 set
Micro nuts: 1 set
Tricam: black (new small size)
15-20 draws / slings
screamers

If fixed gear is missing:
thin pins: couple knifeblades, arrows, angles, and maybe a rurp or two.
Heads: mostly medium, but an assortment of #2-5 should be ample.




Photos of Goof Proof Roof Slideshow Add Photo
Bill Sherman cleaning P2, while I hang out at the ...
Bill Sherman cleaning P2, while I hang out at the ...
Finishing cleaning the roof.  Also showing the fin...
Finishing cleaning the roof. Also showing the fin...
Me, rocking my broken sunglasses and helmet cam!
Me, rocking my broken sunglasses and helmet cam!
Needles to say, some people aren't very accurate w...
Needles to say, some people aren't very accurate w...
Goof Proof Roof - topo  Shows bolt / head ladder a...
BETA PHOTO: Goof Proof Roof - topo Shows bolt / head ladder a...
First pitch heads and first bolt.  Bomber!
First pitch heads and first bolt. Bomber!
Starting the P2 traverse having a blast
Starting the P2 traverse having a blast
Bill Sherman pointing out the original P1 bolt tra...
Bill Sherman pointing out the original P1 bolt tra...
Bill's head poking around the corner
Bill's head poking around the corner
Bill Sherman at the P1 hanging belay
Bill Sherman at the P1 hanging belay
The money pitch
The money pitch

Comments on Goof Proof Roof Add Comment
Show which comments
By C Miller
Administrator
Feb 19, 2009

Nice write-up with lots of helpful information. I've heard this goes clean, any idea if that's true?
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Feb 19, 2009

I believe this was freed by a local kid named Spencer (don't know his last name). To my knowledge, he was the same one that did the first lead of Cheap Thrills as well.
By C Miller
Administrator
Feb 19, 2009

Spencer Pfingston? Do you mean he did it clean or actually climbed it free?

It looks like the 2nd pitch would go free with all of the pin scars but not too sure about the moves starting that pitch.
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Feb 19, 2009

Not sure of his last name. I think he's around the same age as Steven Powers roughly (early 20s?). Anyway, I am pretty sure he free climbed it as opposed to clean-aid.
By Jordan Ramey
From: Calgary, Alberta
Feb 19, 2009

We did it "clean" (02/16/2009) which is why I graded it C2F. I was able to hand clean one knifeblade on the roof traverse that I reset with a couple whacks, which is why I say clean in quotes. All the fixed gear was bomber and the heads on P1 were in good / great shape. The only tricky placement was a small black tricam on the roof. Other than that, long reaches can get you to a lot of the fixed gear (i.e. sideways top stepping and using the face)

We were talking about the roof being free climbable. Definately the crux would be getting established in the roof, but after that it didn't look bad. Lots of good feet and pin scars to do the traverse. The first pitch traverse over to the hanging belay from the original P1 crack and into the roof looked VERY tough to free, but that's coming from a softy like me.