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Routes in Mudterm Area
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Balancing Act T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Buckets of Blood T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Critical Cams T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Even Men Out T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Goods Are Odd T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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In For a Penny T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Lucky Nuts T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Moody's Move T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mudterm T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 550 ft (167 m), 7 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | George Wilson, Larry DeAngelo |
| Page Views: | 2,263 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | George Wilson on Nov 1, 2010 |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen |
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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
We climbed this with a 50 meter rope.
1. Start 25' right of the crack on a nice face and trend right. Belay on a small ledge 5.5 120'
2. Continue up trending right and belay on a huge boulder. 5.6 90'
3. Move the belay to the right around the corner to the base of a wall. We unroped for this. 3rd class.
4. Start up the wall below a seam and move through the roof. The pro is there but sparse and critical. Belay on a nice ledge below a chimney. This is a really good pitch. 5.8 90'
5. Climb into and out of the chimney placing pro deep inside the chimney. There is some nice climbing here! Belay above the chimney. 5.8 90'
6. Head up an OW past a tree and set a belay under the roof on a nice ledge. 5.4 70'
7. Optional belay above the roof. Move up through the roof on soft rock, pick your pro wisely as rope drag becomes an issue. There are some bomber holds trough the roof. Continue up nice varnished face aiming for an arete. Set a belay at the base of the arete. 5.7 100'
Downclimb to rappel slings. Rap into the gully and trend left on the walk down toward two more slung trees. The gully deposits you about 100 yards left of the start.
1. Start 25' right of the crack on a nice face and trend right. Belay on a small ledge 5.5 120'
2. Continue up trending right and belay on a huge boulder. 5.6 90'
3. Move the belay to the right around the corner to the base of a wall. We unroped for this. 3rd class.
4. Start up the wall below a seam and move through the roof. The pro is there but sparse and critical. Belay on a nice ledge below a chimney. This is a really good pitch. 5.8 90'
5. Climb into and out of the chimney placing pro deep inside the chimney. There is some nice climbing here! Belay above the chimney. 5.8 90'
6. Head up an OW past a tree and set a belay under the roof on a nice ledge. 5.4 70'
7. Optional belay above the roof. Move up through the roof on soft rock, pick your pro wisely as rope drag becomes an issue. There are some bomber holds trough the roof. Continue up nice varnished face aiming for an arete. Set a belay at the base of the arete. 5.7 100'
Downclimb to rappel slings. Rap into the gully and trend left on the walk down toward two more slung trees. The gully deposits you about 100 yards left of the start.
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