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Goodro's Wall 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Harold Goodro ~1949
Page Views: 15,884
Submitted By: Matt Hepp on Sep 22, 2001

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Beautiful fall conditions on Goodro's and Six Appe...

Description 

Arguably the first 5.10 in North America. Fun route, good gear, good jams, pumpy. Feeling burly cause you sent it? Some cowboy did the same back in the 40's.

Protection 

Standard rack of nuts and cams up to 2". TCUs useful.


Photos of Goodro's Wall Slideshow Add Photo
the sun making the rock at goodros wall glow
the sun making the rock at goodros wall glow
As seen in the 2012 Prana winter catalog by Andrew Burr. That's the entire route, but it's smoother than it looks here. Usually not this cold either.
As seen in the 2012 Prana winter catalog by Andrew...
get crackin
get crackin
The climber is Chad Mcardle....photographer....Korbin Mcardle/climbinhi....he's midway up the run looking good.
The climber is Chad Mcardle....photographer....Kor...
Craig making Goodro's look easy.
Craig making Goodro's look easy.
(13 June 2009) Brandon Caldwell Over the little roof onto the slab.
(13 June 2009) Brandon Caldwell Over the little ro...
One more pic of Goodro's
One more pic of Goodro's
Another pic of leading Goodro's
Another pic of leading Goodro's
Talia pumpin on goodro's
Talia pumpin on goodro's
Goodros
Goodros
Right about the crux moves with thin feet
Right about the crux moves with thin feet
Leading Goodro's
Leading Goodro's
james on an a huber classic:)
james on an a huber classic:)
Goodros
Goodros
Goodro's on a perfect April afternoon
Goodro's on a perfect April afternoon
Sitting on top of Goodro's Wall
Sitting on top of Goodro's Wall
5. Goodro's Wall (5.10c) at Storm Mtn Island
BETA PHOTO: 5. Goodro's Wall (5.10c) at Storm Mtn Island
james stylin a BCC classic
james stylin a BCC classic
1st time I climbed this (2002) I struggled cause I fought the jams. Not this time. Love those jams. <br />
1st time I climbed this (2002) I struggled cause I...
Jamie on Goodro's
Jamie on Goodro's
Goodro's from the top of Epic Wall.  Must be hot out, look at all that chalk!
Goodro's from the top of Epic Wall. Must be hot o...
Goodroo's Wall
Goodroo's Wall
Goodro's Wall. Great climb.
Goodro's Wall. Great climb.
King doing some crack moves.  Man that face is slick!
King doing some crack moves. Man that face is sli...

Show All 25 Photos

Only the first 24 are shown above.

Comments on Goodro's Wall Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 29, 2014
By Tyler Pool
Oct 19, 2014

CONDITION REPORT 
Seems like everyone is just TR'ing it these days. It protects easily with a single set of BD .3-1, or a set of stoppers. Get the lead to put the climb to rest!

Also, the group up on 10/18/2014. I think you walked off with an extra pair of shoes, message me so I can get them back...
By Anonymous Coward
Dec 20, 2001

Climbed this about 5 or 6 months ago. It was a great climb. The surface is quite slick making smears a little dicey. About three quarters of the way up is a bird's nest. Pretty cool to look at the little fellas (they just hatched when we were there). Of course fighting off the mother bird made the climb more thrilling. Definitely worth it!!

-Braden A. Salt Lake City, UT
By Anonymous Coward
Apr 23, 2002

Actually, Harold Goodro was no cowboy. He was an engineer. In fact Harold was my first climbing instructor way back in 1973 when I was a grad student at U of U. Harold has first ascents all over the place including an important variation on the N Face of the Grand. However, his teaching style was : here's the stuff, now go for it. He had us practice leader falls at Storm Mountain by placing a single pin about 30 feet off the ground, having us climb about 10 feet above it and jumping off. What the hell did we know? I still have scars on my leg from slamming into the rock below the pin. After 28 years of climbing I still think that was the only leader fall I've been hurt on.

Gary Stetler Boulder CO
By Nathan Fisher
Apr 14, 2004
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

2 bolts for the anchors, also I believe 1 piton at the base of the roof.
By Peter Gram
Administrator
From: New York, NY
May 24, 2004

There is one piton at the base of the roof, and another a short ways above on the face slightly to the right of the main crack. Neither one is probably worth clipping - bomber gear right near both.
By John J. Glime
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 8, 2004

Awesome... climb this route.
By d-know
From: electric lady land
Jan 28, 2006
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

favorite crack in the whole canyon.
my first trad lead
By Rob C.
From: Freeport, ME
Aug 4, 2006

This hard is climb!
By icsteveoh
From: salt lake city, UT
May 13, 2007
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

this is a must climb. Awesome jams and a good pump fest to the anchors. Loved it! Pretty easily TR'd also.
By Nick Faust
From: Sandy, UT
Jul 9, 2007

Watch out for the birds and the bees. Birds nest is still there, about 3/4 of the way up. Bees were swarming up by the anchors. Other than that.... an awesome climb.
By Josh Heiss
Aug 11, 2008

Easily the funnest climb in the canyon. Pumpy, crack climbing goodness at its finest.
By Rachelle J. Ross
Jun 29, 2009

Wow what a climb. While I had to hang one point and let my right arm regain sensation the mother bird bailed out her nest, right out between my legs. Scared the crap outta me, but it's a great story! And the face on this is slicker than you can even believe. Great crack with superb jams easily top roped for chickens like me. A classic climb.
By Brandon Caldwell
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 13, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Climbed Goodro's wall today. This crack reminds me that it has been decades since I was 19!

Always a beautiful climb. I First climbed Goodro's Wall back in the late 80's early 90's. Not as popular back then. A few days without rain and the crack can really get slick. The birds nest about halfway up is now abandoned (for the rest of this year at least). Best crack cilmb in the canyon IMHO.
By Moonfri
Oct 13, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Ticked this one finally today. Got me good and pumped. A fine climb!
By Jerome Sharpe
From: Wanship, UT
Jul 3, 2010

For the sake of clarity, the photo caption says the beautiful fall conditions "on Goodro's and Six Pence". It's actually Six Appeal.
By Jon Behrmann
From: Herriman
Sep 26, 2010

Donovan Bagley setting up TR on Goodro's Wall
By bheller
From: SL UT
Sep 27, 2010

Ahhh Goodro's wall... likely the best rappel in the wasatch!
By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Sep 27, 2010

One of the most difficult rappels in the country when it was first done.
By Price
From: SLC, UT
Sep 28, 2010

You told him to go for it, and he went for it! Nice rap.
By Donovan
From: West Jordan, Utah
Oct 8, 2010

In my opinion this is one of the ultimate climbs in BCC. Each time I climb it, it seems to have a different crux. Sometimes it's the roof, sometimes it's part of the main crack. Each time I climb it I'm reminded of how ludicrous it would be for me to lead it. Hopefully one day. I try to climb new routes whenever I can, but I'm always game for another go at Goodro's.
By steven sadler
From: SLC, UT
May 3, 2011

Did this climb today. It's an awesome route and super pumpy. Gear can be a little tricky though. The crack varies so much it takes some finesse to get good placements.
By Steve Blevins
From: Central Coast, CA
Jun 16, 2011

I have done this climb maybe 6 times over the last 25 years, never lead it. Last year lead it poorly because of poor cam placement. Talked w/Andy at IME, he suggested nuts. Of course! Made a huge difference today.

On lead I discovered a little easier way to top out moving left. I normally finished fairly straight up, moving slightly right, which might be the basis for the 10b/c rating. For most of the years I did it. it was rated 5.9+. I think objectively, no move is harder than 5.9 (with possible exception of the harder finish), but there are no real rests and quite sustained especially after the roof, and of course very fine grained smooth slab face surfaces. On that basis I would say it merits a hard 5.10a rating, very few 5.10a leaders are going to be able to do it cleanly.
By Mark SLC
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 3, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

That gave me a good laugh. And it's not the individual moves but the pump and firing the gear on sight on lead that make this legit 10c
By Murphski
From: SLC, UT
Sep 15, 2011

I left a red Metolious curve nut on this route this evening (9/15/11.)It was getting dark, and I couldn't spend anymore time working on that piece. It should come out fairly easy though. Good karma if you want to get it back to me.

Thanks
By Jaren
From: NC
Nov 4, 2011

Back in 2004 I was rappelling after setting up the TR and the bird everyone talks about decided to fly in to its nest right by my head. As it landed a huge snake reached out and ate it. All of this was inches from my face. Needless to say we didn't climb it that day. Who knows what surprise would have met me midway had that bird not flown in.
By Josh Triplett
From: Bountiful, UT
Jun 9, 2012
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Don't have a full rack yet but couldn't pass up this gorgeous line so I top roped it. Very fun climb. Amazing hand jams and plenty of rests, I could see great pro for it as well. Right arm felt it halfway up just a bit. Got the onsight TR and look forward to a true onsight with gear. On TR I give it a 10b, we'll see what happens when I lead.
By Tim Harper
Sep 12, 2012

Really fun climb. Anchors at the top are solid. We didn't lead the crack though, we set up a top-rope.

To get a top-rope up, we used two 60m ropes. First, we climbed Aqualung to the right, and left the rope up. Then, we climbed up Aqualung again, this time with a 2nd rope (but using the 1st rope as protection), traversed over to the top of Goodro's wall, set up a top-rope, and then came down. Be careful on the traverse, as a far could lead to a size-able swing and slam you in to Aqualung. Wear a helmet, be smart, etc.
By Jordy
May 11, 2013

Pretty easy on T.R. if you're expecting 10C. I'm sure the lead would be an ENTIRELY different story. The climb was full of fun fun moves! ...Edit 5/23/13 ran into Alex Quitiquit (never met before) up there today who placed bomber gear, then let me lead on it. Rad dude, rad climb. Thank you sir!
By Kevin Gillest
From: Arvada, CO
Jul 5, 2013
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Great route, worth the drive for this route alone. Used single set of cams, Blue #1 Metolius - Red BD #1

Garrett Gillest sending and cleaning gear on "Goodro's Wall" at age 7
Garrett Gillest sending and cleaning gear on "Goodro's Wall" at age 7
By leodelta
4 days ago
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

hands down my favorite climb anywhere. absolute classic!
By madskates
From: SLC
20 hours ago

SO MUCH FUN!