Climbed this about 5 or 6 months ago. It was a great climb. The surface is quite slick making smears a little dicey. About three quarters of the way up is a bird's nest. Pretty cool to look at the little fellas (they just hatched when we were there). Of course fighting off the mother bird made the climb more thrilling. Definitely worth it!!
Actually, Harold Goodro was no cowboy. He was an engineer. In fact Harold was my first climbing instructor way back in 1973 when I was a grad student at U of U. Harold has first ascents all over the place including an important variation on the N Face of the Grand. However, his teaching style was : here's the stuff, now go for it. He had us practice leader falls at Storm Mountain by placing a single pin about 30 feet off the ground, having us climb about 10 feet above it and jumping off. What the hell did we know? I still have scars on my leg from slamming into the rock below the pin. After 28 years of climbing I still think that was the only leader fall I've been hurt on.
Wow what a climb. While I had to hang one point and let my right arm regain sensation the mother bird bailed out her nest, right out between my legs. Scared the crap outta me, but it's a great story! And the face on this is slicker than you can even believe. Great crack with superb jams easily top roped for chickens like me. A classic climb.
By Brandon Caldwell From: Salt Lake City, UT Aug 13, 2009 rating: 5.10c6b20VIIE2 5b
Climbed Goodro's wall today. This crack reminds me that it has been decades since I was 19!
Always a beautiful climb. I First climbed Goodro's Wall back in the late 80's early 90's. Not as popular back then. A few days without rain and the crack can really get slick. The birds nest about halfway up is now abandoned (for the rest of this year at least). Best crack cilmb in the canyon IMHO.
In my opinion this is one of the ultimate climbs in BCC. Each time I climb it, it seems to have a different crux. Sometimes it's the roof, sometimes it's part of the main crack. Each time I climb it I'm reminded of how ludicrous it would be for me to lead it. Hopefully one day. I try to climb new routes whenever I can, but I'm always game for another go at Goodro's.
I have done this climb maybe 6 times over the last 25 years, never lead it. Last year lead it poorly because of poor cam placement. Talked w/Andy at IME, he suggested nuts. Of course! Made a huge difference today.
On lead I discovered a little easier way to top out moving left. I normally finished fairly straight up, moving slightly right, which might be the basis for the 10b/c rating. For most of the years I did it. it was rated 5.9+. I think objectively, no move is harder than 5.9 (with possible exception of the harder finish), but there are no real rests and quite sustained especially after the roof, and of course very fine grained smooth slab face surfaces. On that basis I would say it merits a hard 5.10a rating, very few 5.10a leaders are going to be able to do it cleanly.
By Mark SLC From: Salt Lake City, UT Sep 3, 2011 rating: 5.10c6b20VIIE2 5b
That gave me a good laugh. And it's not the individual moves but the pump and firing the gear on sight on lead that make this legit 10c
I left a red Metolious curve nut on this route this evening (9/15/11.)It was getting dark, and I couldn't spend anymore time working on that piece. It should come out fairly easy though. Good karma if you want to get it back to me.
Back in 2004 I was rappelling after setting up the TR and the bird everyone talks about decided to fly in to its nest right by my head. As it landed a huge snake reached out and ate it. All of this was inches from my face. Needless to say we didn't climb it that day. Who knows what surprise would have met me midway had that bird not flown in.
By Josh Triplett From: Bountiful, UT Jun 9, 2012 rating: 5.10b/c6b20VIIE2 5b
Don't have a full rack yet but couldn't pass up this gorgeous line so I top roped it. Very fun climb. Amazing hand jams and plenty of rests, I could see great pro for it as well. Right arm felt it halfway up just a bit. Got the onsight TR and look forward to a true onsight with gear. On TR I give it a 10b, we'll see what happens when I lead.
Really fun climb. Anchors at the top are solid. We didn't lead the crack though, we set up a top-rope.
To get a top-rope up, we used two 60m ropes. First, we climbed Aqualung to the right, and left the rope up. Then, we climbed up Aqualung again, this time with a 2nd rope (but using the 1st rope as protection), traversed over to the top of Goodro's wall, set up a top-rope, and then came down. Be careful on the traverse, as a far could lead to a size-able swing and slam you in to Aqualung. Wear a helmet, be smart, etc.
Pretty easy on T.R. if you're expecting 10C. I'm sure the lead would be an ENTIRELY different story. The climb was full of fun fun moves! ...Edit 5/23/13 ran into Alex Quitiquit (never met before) up there today who placed bomber gear, then let me lead on it. Rad dude, rad climb. Thank you sir!
By Kevin Gillest From: Arvada, CO Jul 5, 2013 rating: 5.10b/c6b20VIIE2 5b
Great route, worth the drive for this route alone. Used single set of cams, Blue #1 Metolius - Red BD #1
Garrett Gillest sending and cleaning gear on "Goodro's Wall" at age 7