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Goodrich to the Oasis 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 16 pitches, 1700', Grade IV
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Eric Beck, Mike Cohen, and Tom Gerughty, 1966
Page Views: 898
Submitted By: Stefano Prezioso on Jun 26, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: Looking down at Pitch 14, with Ben still at the be...

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Description 

Goodrich to the Oasis is a climb that offers a bit of everything. Expect runout friction (if climbing Goodrich Pinnacle - Right Side), well protected face climbing, spots of tricky route finding, overgrown crack systems, some loose rock, and seasonally wet climbing. The pitches tend to be better down low, and decrease in quality as you climb, but the adventurous nature of the climb makes up for what the upper pitches lack.

Pitch numbers are in reference to the Clint Cummins topo of Galactic Hitchhiker that can be found here. stanford.edu/~clint/yos/galahi...

Pitch lengths are approximate, and should only serve as a rough guide.

Pitches 1-8: Goodrich Pinnacle - Right Side as seen on the topo. (The Goodrich Pinnacle - Left Side is also another option to reach the top of the Pinnacle)

Pitch 9: Climb the face to a piton in a small roof, then up to a bolt. Traverse left after the first bolt to another, then follow the ramp up and right to a belay with a bolt and a piton or two. ~75 feet 5.9

Pitch 10: Follow a thin crack up and left from the belay about 20 feet to two closely spaced bolts. Traverse left, then up the left facing dihedral, passing a fixed piton. Climb up the face above, passing three bolts, then trend up and left to a right facing dihedral that leads to a ledge with several bolts of varying quality to belay. ~125 feet 5.10a

Pitch 11: From the belay, traverse out right, getting into the left-facing dihedral. Climb the dihedral, surmounting a small roof, and up into a thin splitter crack. Above the crack, there is a small ledge, and easy climbing leads to Beck's Bivy. 3 bolts for an anchor. ~110 feet, 5.8

Pitch 12: Easy, overgrown 5th class takes you up to a ledge that is supposed to have three pitons for an anchor. The pitons may be missing. ~60 feet, Easy 5th

Pitch 13: From the ledge, climb the crack to a roof. Going left is supposedly 5.10a, and leads to a large, left facing dihedral chute that eases after the entry moves. Going right under the roof follows roughly 5.8 climbing. The right side of the roof is overgrown and dirty, and then follows a good splitter crack (varying between off fingers and hand sized) which has some intermittent plants. Eventually, traverse back left to enter the large, left facing dihedral chute. Once in the chute, follow it until you can escape right on a band of smooth, white, marble-like rock that takes you to a ledge with three bolts. ~150 feet 5.10a, or 5.8 munge/bushwhacking (With a short bit of simul-climbing on easy terrain, pitches 12 and 13 can be combined with a 60m rope.)

Pitch 14: The aforementioned 10b section as noted on the Cummins topo is supposedly straight above the belay. I opted for easier climbing back off left. From here, route finding skills are your friend, and my pitches vary from the topo a bit. You can climb back into the chute, following that up, and continuing into a more broken ledge/dihedral system than angles up and to the right. Watch for loose or rotten rock, and pass by the occasional fixed piton. Most of the climbing is easy fifth, with possible moves of 5.7 or 5.8 strewn about. Stop and build a gear anchor where it seems fitting. I recall a fixed piton with slings on it that marked my belay. Keep your eyes peeled for a suitable rappel station as well. ~180 feet, 5.7?

Pitch 15: Continue up the broken ledge/dihedral system to a ledge with a bolt and two pitons for an anchor. You are now directly below the bolt ladder that continues up to Galactic Hitchhiker, and are looking up and right at the Oasis. ~80 feet, 5.7?

Pitch 16: Traverse right and down, then up, passing seasonally wet, heavily overgrown, and possibly muddy climbing. It's all very easy, but careful with wet shoes. The two bolts mentioned on the Cummins topo were nowhere to be found by me. They could have been in the jungle of plants somewhere. Continuing up the left-facing corner and doing it all as one pitch is reasonable and suggested. Gear anchor, or use the large pine tree. Welcome to The Oasis! ~180 feet, 5.7

To rappel the route, you need two 60m ropes. Bringing webbing or cord, as well as a knife to clean up old tat on anchors is highly recommended. Rap from the large pine tree at The Oasis to the top of Pitch 15. Then rap down, searching for a possible 3 piton rap station that was off further right from the climbing route, and lower than the single piton + gear anchor for the top of pitch 14. Other options may exist using fixed pitons on the route, but gear may need to be left to beef a lone piton up. Don't be dumb and rap off a single, old piton! From here, rap down to the 3 bolt anchor atop of pitch 13. Now rap down to Becks Bivy, which is a rope stretcher! (Optionally, you may be able to make the easy 5th class and down climb.) With two 60m ropes, I had a couple feet of rope leftover when my feet were on the ledge. Now rap down to the top of pitch 10, then another full length rappel to the top of Goodrich Pinnacle. From here, rap down Goodrich Pinnacle. Especially for the last rap gaining the top of Goodrich Pinnacle, put knots in the ends of your ropes, since many of the raps also involve a bit of traversing and can be rope stretchers.

Location 

Continue up the face directly off the top of Goodrich Pinnacle. Look for a fixed piton under a two inch roof, and a bolt above that. Climb the face up to the piton to start Goodrich to the Oasis.

Rappel the route using double 60m ropes, and beefing up anchors with your own webbing or cord as you see fit. Make note of anchors when climbing to make route finding during the rappels easier.

Protection 

Standard rack to 3", a 4" piece could be used in spots, but is not necessary. Several long slings for extending pieces as pitches can wander. Draws are useful for bolts and fixed pitons. Webbing/cord and a knife for cleaning and beefing up old tat at rappel anchors. Two 60m ropes for rappelling the route.


Photos of Goodrich to the Oasis Slideshow Add Photo
Beck's Bivy, top of Pitch 11
BETA PHOTO: Beck's Bivy, top of Pitch 11
Goodrich to The Oasis. Photo Credit: Clint Cummins
BETA PHOTO: Goodrich to The Oasis. Photo Credit: Clint Cummins
Looking up from the top of Pitch 13, with the possible 10b right in the center of the photo. Easier climbing is out left and goes up the ledge/dihedral systems.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up from the top of Pitch 13, with the poss...
The roof on pitch 13 with "The Gap."
BETA PHOTO: The roof on pitch 13 with "The Gap."

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