The clean, black left-facing corner just opposite the Schoolmaster.
A few 0.5 Camalots and blue TCU's, but mostly 0.4 Camalots/yellow TCU's (6 or 7 will sew it up).
Good by cruel world
Jason Wells sends GCW - Oct. '09
j howland photo
|By Ryan Curry|
Jun 7, 2008
This is the best climb I've done at The Wall. I found the big piece recommended to be unnecessary. Light is right on this awesome route.
|By adam brink|
From: Boulder, CO
May 1, 2009
Totally amazing climb. You will learn if you have your first knuckle layback technique down or not.
|By Ol' Toby|
Mar 29, 2010
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Superb shortie route. I found 4-5 orange metolius protected the crack above the rest, while yellow were slightly tipped.
|By Keith Beckley|
Oct 22, 2011
This route is too locker to be 5.12.....i sent it onsight after 7 other pitches.....continous but more like 11c....Dancing Queen is harder for sure...great, doable OW though
|By Kevin DB|
Nov 7, 2012
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
With good man-size fingers and a little stemming it feels easier than 12-, still a pump fest.