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Good Trad harness??

Original Post
Jason Gilbert · · Kenai, AK · Joined Nov 2002 · Points: 320

Does anyone have any suggestions for a good harness. I mostly climb longer Trad lines in Colorado, multiple climbs in a day and I'm starting to get into some easier big wall climbing. I'm looking for something comfortable, but I really want it to be tough (I'm really hard on gear) and I'd like it to have several gear loops, like 4-6. Weight's not an issue.

Any good suggestions??

Mark Cushman · · Cumming, GA · Joined Sep 2006 · Points: 980

I like my Misty Mountain Caddy it's a bit heavy, but comfy for long days and has 6 gear loops which I find very useful.

Charles Danforth · · L'ville, CO · Joined Aug 2003 · Points: 170

BD Momentum (not Momentum AL) is a good beginner, all-purpose harness. 4 gear loops, adjustable legs, etc. I'm on my second one now and use it for everything from trad to alpine ice.

KathyS · · Poughkeepsie, NY · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 125
Mark Cushman wrote:I like my Misty Mountain Caddy it's a bit heavy, but comfy for long days and has 6 gear loops which I find very useful.
I'll second the Caddy for comfort. I hung around in at least a half dozen different harnesses before ponying up for one. I don't really like the way two gear loops are stacked directly above each other on each sides, but have learned how to clip one and not both.

Kathy
Mark Cushman · · Cumming, GA · Joined Sep 2006 · Points: 980
KathyS wrote:I don't really like the way two gear loops are stacked directly above each other on each sides, but have learned how to clip one and not both.
Just a note on that, the smaller sizes have gear loops that are stacked, but the size that I wear (Large) has some fair separation between the two rear loops. I typically rack gear on the front loops, draws on the next set of loops, then cordalettes, a few lockers, belay device and nut tool on the back loops. Rescue kit (DMM Revolver, prussic cord and Tibloc) are hung from my rear haul loop.
Kevin Stricker · · Evergreen, CO · Joined Oct 2002 · Points: 1,197

For all day comfort the Caddy is hard to beat. My only complaint is the whimpy belay loop, but mine has not failed yet in 5+ years of regular use. It is a bit heavy for cragging and alpine, but perfect for big wall climbing.

Mike Epke · · Denver, CO · Joined Jul 2002 · Points: 110

Wild Country Syncro Ziplock is great. Lots of gear loops and extra feautures, everyone I climb with gets into them and I have had two friends got the harness when their's needed replaced. It even has gear loops in front of your hips so that if you climb trad and rack on your harness you can see your gear, a feature missing on many harnesses these days.

Kevin Fox · · parker · Joined Apr 2003 · Points: 970

Own both of the afore mentioned harnesses in the old style and the new style all the upgrades. My next harness though will be a misty mountain caddy. tons of gear loops and comfy. I did a multipitch line in my wild country sycro last weekend and my legs fell asleep and my back was killing me by the end of the day. I also noticed that because it uses the speed buckling system that I was always having to tighten the waist up. good harnesses but if plan on hanging belays, seriously check out the caddy. the daddy of them all is the titan by misty .own it as well and it was designed for big walls

saxfiend · · Decatur, GA · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 4,221
KathyS wrote: I'll second the Caddy for comfort. I hung around in at least a half dozen different harnesses before ponying up for one. I don't really like the way two gear loops are stacked directly above each other on each sides, but have learned how to clip one and not both. Kathy
This has been a major annoyance for me too. Poor design on an otherwise great harness; the gear loops should be at least slightly offset. Like you, I've learned to work around it.

JL
Aaron Voreis · · Edina, MN · Joined Apr 2003 · Points: 140

Yates Astroman! Super primo especially if you have an old pair of lighter leg loops. Then you can run the beefy yates legs on walls and the lighter setup on free routes.

Mike Morin · · Glen, NH · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 1,350

I love my Wild Country Syncro

Mike Pharris · · Longmont, CO · Joined May 2007 · Points: 125

I just got the WC Syncro - haven't climbed in it yet, but it was super comfy to hang in at the 'in store test'. Loaded my rack up on it and really like the extra coupld of loops on each hip, it seemed to carry the weight really well with zero sag or pull compared to my old harness.

Unboundquark · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2008 · Points: 195

Loving my Synchro Ziplock!

-Glenn

Mike Pharris · · Longmont, CO · Joined May 2007 · Points: 125

Climbed in the WC Synchro last night - very comfy hang, comfy to belay from - very pleased with it.

Jason Gilbert · · Kenai, AK · Joined Nov 2002 · Points: 320

Hey Guys,
Thanks for all the great help picking a new harness. I tried on the MM Caddy and really liked it, but haven't bought one yet. I'm really interested in trying a WC Syncro,

Where in the Denver area can I try one on??

Josh Brown · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 20
Charles Danforth wrote:BD Momentum (not Momentum AL) is a good beginner, all-purpose harness. 4 gear loops, adjustable legs, etc. I'm on my second one now and use it for everything from trad to alpine ice.
ditto for me, it's a great all-arounder and can be found on the cheap with a little searching
Kevin Fox · · parker · Joined Apr 2003 · Points: 970

Bentgate in golden has both of the harnesses that you are looking at. the wildcountry syncro ziplock is a nice harness. thats is if you don't have to spend an hour hanging in it. I also used it for ice this year as it has loops designed for ice clippers.

ntphoto Tininenko · · Aspen, Colorado · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 0

I've been using a Misty Mountain Titan for about 8 years now...absolutely the best harness I've ever worn! I love the double buckle design (keeps it centered). Also the webbing which is used is very easy to double back compared to others I've worn in the past... Mine is the older version which still had the fleecy lining. Haven't tried the newer version yet. For the weight (15oz, I believe), I think it's the most comfortable harness out there...

Walter Macalma · · Oceanside, CA · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 0

I do my route setting and big wall stuff in a BD Big Gun, dual belay loops, plenty of gear loops for those lines that need an arsenal of gear, plus the extra wide loop in the back allows chalk bags to be super accessible in any position. When you walk they do rub together and make a swish noise with each step. Complaint #2 is the padding, which although great was just before the newer more comfortable version on the Focus.

Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 60

Anyone know if any of harnesses mentioned have tie in strength haul loops? I'm guessing the Yates might, but that's just a guess.

Mike Pharris · · Longmont, CO · Joined May 2007 · Points: 125

The Wild Country Synchro has a full strength loop on the back, it's a bit offset from the center of the back, but it's still behind the gear loops.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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