Good to the Last Drop
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 3.1 from 11 votes
Type: | Trad, 800 ft (242 m), 7 pitches, Grade III |
FA: | John Kear, Paul Johnson and Karl Kiser winter 2006 |
Page Views: | 2,053 total · 10/month |
Shared By: | John Kear on Dec 3, 2007 · Updates |
Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
Description
Start the route in a SW facing bay about 2/3 of the way down the gully separating The Needle and Hidden Wall.
1) Face climbing past a bolt leads to a crack system ending on lower angled terrain after 150ft (5.8/9).
The starting variation to the right is the easiest - 5.6R - and completely bypasses the bolt.
2) Scamble up the low angle terrain and into a crack/flare, continue up on mixed face and crack climbing to a good ledge with a large block 150ft (5.8).
3) Climb straight up fins and finger cracks to a wide crack leading to a ledge. Continue up face to another ledge system and belay from a tree at the base of a right facing corner 100ft (5.8).
4) Follow the corner and exit right onto face climbing, follow the face past two bolts to another r facing corner and a ledge above a tree 150ft (5.9+).
5) Climb straight up a crack system to excellent face and short crack systems to another ledge 100ft (5.8).
6) Climb up undercling and lieback crack to a ledge and face moves, belay on ledge after 70ft (5.8).
7) Climb up and right past a bolt, continue right to shallow L facing crack system. Follow the corner and finger crack to the top of the wall,150ft (5.9+).
Note that the P7 bolt may be poorly placed for the 5.9 leader. Instead, one can ascend 5 or 10 feet left of the bolt to place gear with long sling before down-climbing while trending right to clip the bolt at your ankles. If using doubles with two following partners, you probably know what to do.
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