Type: Trad, 800 ft (242 m), 7 pitches, Grade III
FA: John Kear, Paul Johnson and Karl Kiser winter 2006
Page Views: 2,053 total · 10/month
Shared By: John Kear on Dec 3, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Start the route in a SW facing bay about 2/3 of the way down the gully separating The Needle and Hidden Wall.

1) Face climbing past a bolt leads to a crack system ending on lower angled terrain after 150ft (5.8/9).

The starting variation to the right is the easiest - 5.6R - and completely bypasses the bolt.

2) Scamble up the low angle terrain and into a crack/flare, continue up on mixed face and crack climbing to a good ledge with a large block 150ft (5.8).

3) Climb straight up fins and finger cracks to a wide crack leading to a ledge. Continue up face to another ledge system and belay from a tree at the base of a right facing corner 100ft (5.8).

4) Follow the corner and exit right onto face climbing, follow the face past two bolts to another r facing corner and a ledge above a tree 150ft (5.9+).

5) Climb straight up a crack system to excellent face and short crack systems to another ledge 100ft (5.8).

6) Climb up undercling and lieback crack to a ledge and face moves, belay on ledge after 70ft (5.8).

7) Climb up and right past a bolt, continue right to shallow L facing crack system. Follow the corner and finger crack to the top of the wall,150ft (5.9+).

Note that the P7 bolt may be poorly placed for the 5.9 leader. Instead, one can ascend 5 or 10 feet left of the bolt to place gear with long sling  before  down-climbing while  trending right to clip the bolt at your ankles. If using doubles with two following partners, you probably know what to do.

Location Suggest change

The route is located 2/3 of the way down the Needle gully. The start is in a large SW facing bay with a black corner/water streak in the back of the bay. The route starts 30ft left of the black corner. Walk off the top of the climb.

Protection Suggest change

The pro is mostly good where you need it, but there is solid 5.9 climbing above your protection. The route is not R rated but the "+" in the rating should be considered. A standard Sandia rack to 2.5-3". There are fixed stoppers marking the belays at P2 and P4. Two bolts on P4 and one on P7.

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