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This is the left-hand crack system on the darkly varnished wall immediately to the left of the giant square roof. Start in a small dihedral just to the right of the left-facing corner leading to the low roof. Climb straight up until the crack peters out and the climbing becomes improbable. Go up and right joining Drat Crack
final few feet to the belay. A second pitch (somewhat easier) leads up and right to a bush at the corner of the big square roof. Either rappel into the corner below, or (probably better) rappel the route.
By John Hegyes
From: Las Vegas, NV
Dec 4, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Good-Time Charlie and Drat Crack join toward the top of p1 just below the crux move, a crack through the upper roof, which was pretty stiff for 5.8. Both routes are unique and fun, but to do both, you end up pulling the same crux move twice. The anchor at the top of p1 features natural threads and fixed nuts. The second pitch is about 5.2 and I felt it was uninteresting. We rapped p2 with a single 60 meter rope. The rap from the p1 anchor to the ground is approx 150 feet - so bring two ropes.