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 ADVANCED
Lower Small Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aptly Named 
Blue Biner T 
Caterpillar Crack T 
DAB Chimney T 
Der Kommissar T 
Dicey at Best T 
Good Tang T 
Hierarchy 
Lost Dart T 
Love Hurts 
Seven-Ten Split 
Spider Squat, The T 
Weasel, The 
Unsorted Routes:

Good Tang 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 175'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Larry Day, Frank Becker 1974
Season: Any
Page Views: 790
Submitted By: Chris Chaney on Apr 13, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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The first pitch

Description 

From the ground, for the grade, this is a very intimidating route. If your leading limit is 5.7 then you may want to follow this one first.

Well right of Dicey at Best find a deep dark dihedral with big roofs above.

Climb up relatively easy ground to a stance below the first roof. Shorter people will be forced to stretch for good holds above.

Climb up to a ledge above the second roof (sneak left to keep the grade moderate) and belay.

Continue up a wider crack to the top of the wall. Rap the route with two ropes or find some other way down.

Location 

Hike right from Dicey at Best and find a decent but spooky looking crack system in a big dihedral.

Protection 

Standard RRG rack, take slings and wider gear for the finish.


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3rd pitch chimney
3rd pitch chimney

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By wes calkins
Mar 13, 2013

I would recommend linking the first 2 pitches. It ends at a set of chain anchors. When climbign through the second roof if you stay in the right crack the grade is closer to 5.9, but you can escape left and keep it mellow. The chimney at the top will require some big gear, a #5 at a minimum and a #6bd would also come in handy although I did it without. The veiws from the top are worth the squeeze!!