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By Cody P
May 15, 2013

My girlfriend and I are back at it and need to quickly build our strength back. We are looking for a steep, pumpy crack with an easy approach, afternoon shade, and (for now at least) easily TR'd. Does anybody have any suggestions?


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By Jay Eggleston
From Littleton
May 15, 2013
Berlin

Where?


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By trundlebum
From Las Vegas NV
May 15, 2013
Somewhere in Tuolumne, sometime early 80's

Karate crack in the mornings, Atman in the afternoon ?

Or try 'Fist and Chips' right above Red Springs piknik area that has afternoon shade early in the day.


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By Cody P
May 15, 2013

Redrock. Or anywhere close to Vegas. Calico basin preferably.
Thanks tbum


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By Cody P
May 15, 2013

How does one find fist and chips? Is that in red springs lower tier? My book doesn't have it.


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By Brian Prince
From morro bay, ca
May 15, 2013
The Seward Highway is really beautiful.

The fox is the obvious choice. Yeah, atman and yin yang too. All three of these are an easy tr setup. They're all also in calico basin and I'm pretty sure all get shade. Risk brother's roof is the next step in calico basin but you'll have to lead it.


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By Weston L
From Summerlin, NV
May 15, 2013
Me at the good rest on Doggie Do

Fist and Chips? I'm intrigued as well. Not in the handren guide or on MP - what's it go at and how to get to it?


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By trundlebum
From Las Vegas NV
May 16, 2013
Somewhere in Tuolumne, sometime early 80's

Fist and Chips 5.10a
FA TrundleBum and Lucas Krajnik 09

It is hard to pick out from the parking area.
Look for a heavily varnished wall with a crescent/left arching flake/crack that has an orangey, red wall left of the crack

Approach:
From the Red Springs parking Hike up right/North to the Fence line on the north side of the Red Springs meadow.
At the west end of the fence line start back south until somewhat before the middle of the meadow and head uphill trending left.
There is a vague ramp system that diagonals uphill from left to right terminating near the base of "Red Springs Rock" area.
About half way up the hill you will see the climb perhaps 50' off the ramp to the left.

The climb is short but sweet.
Starting from a flat, down sloping ledge
There is a flake/crack that comes out of the ground almost horizontally and after a few moves turns and runs vertically up the wall of the crag
Solid hand jams off the ground gets you past the initial overhanging section.
From there deep hand jams up past a jug out to the right of the crack in the black Varnish.
As the crack starts to arch left it widens and the angle rapidly eases.

There is (last I knew) a fixed anchor with screw link.

The climb can be TR'd by third classing up to the anchor from atop a block left of the climb.

This Trip report posted by 'Cosmiccragsman' on Supertopo has some pictures of the route.
www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1316196/Were-not-DEAD-yet-o>>>


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By Cody P
May 17, 2013

Thanks Trundlebum. Thats some great stuff.
Is that Ron Olevsky? I've never seen a pic of him before...he looks like a nice guy?? Has he put up anything in RR?


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By trundlebum
From Las Vegas NV
May 21, 2013
Somewhere in Tuolumne, sometime early 80's

Not Olevsky:
I have met Ron but we are not friends per se'
I could only call Ron an acquaintance.

The other climbers are:
Jim Donnini as Jim Donnini
Dwain Warren as 'CosmicCragsman'


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