Good starter alpine routes for a rock climber?

Hello from the frozen tundra that is Minnesota. Those who know geography are aware that we have no mountains... But I like the idea. I'll have to travel to get to an alpine environment, so pretty much U.S.A and Canada are fair game.

Can anyone recommend something with the following in mind:

- I'm interested in free climbing only, and the more vertical face, the better
- Nearer to Minnesota is better (U.S.A and Canada are fair game, though)
- Easy approach is better
- Warmer is better
- Safer mountain is better
- Other single pitch climbing in the area is better

Any thoughts? Also I know alpine is dangerous and that I don't know anything yet. I plan to spend a while learning before attempting anything, unless you happen to know of a climb that's so safe that anyone with multipitch skills can do it safely (I don't even have multipitch skills yet, but that's something I'll work on this season).

Technically not alpine but durrance route on devils tower? I'm a former wisconsinite and thus feel your pain. If you want to visit Washington I'll take you on some stuff on the liberty bell group and get you hooked. As long as you promise to not be a dick or kill me..... My only two requirements.

Here's your training plan/objective.

Step 1: Drive to Colorado
Step 2: Go to Eldorado Canyon State Park
Step 3: Climb the Bastille Crack
Step 4: Climb Rewritten
Step 5: Analyze what went right/what went wrong
Step 6: Drive to Estes park. Climb Kor's Flake, putting into practice what you've learned from multi pitch in Eldo.

Step 7; (VERY IMPORTANT!!!!) Ask yourself "am I ready to do this in the mountains? Am I ready enough to do this quickly ad safely before the lightning comes in.

If the answer is yes, then move on to...

Step 8: Drive to the Glacier Gorge trailhead, get a back country permit. Hike into the Gash at the base of Sharkstooth. Set up camp. Go to bed early
Step 9: Wake up at 3:30 AM. Climb the Northeast Ridge of Sharkstooth.

Step 10: Head to Ed's Catina for celebratory Fish Tacos and margaritas.

Step 0.5: ignore the "yer going to die" comments that are sure to follow. Even if you come out here and don't feel dialed enough to go into the Alpine, you'll still have a great time climbing in Eldo and Lumpy Ridge.

Come to Red Rock. It's not alpine but it's a good place to practice multi-pitch technique as there are a lot of long, easy routes to be had. Flights here can be found for a decent price as well.

The Blueprint Part Dank wrote:Here's your training plan/objective. Step 1: Drive to Colorado Step 2: Go to Eldorado Canyon State Park Step 3: Climb the Bastille Crack Step 4: Climb Rewritten Step 5: Analyze what went right/what went wrong Step 6: Drive to Estes park. Climb Kor's Flake, putting into practice what you've learned from multi pitch in Eldo. Step 7; (VERY IMPORTANT!!!!) Ask yourself "am I ready to do this in the mountains? Am I ready enough to do this quickly ad safely before the lightning comes in. If the answer is yes, then move on to... Step 8: Drive to the Glacier Gorge trailhead, get a back country permit. Hike into the Gash at the base of Sharkstooth. Set up camp. Go to bed early Step 9: Wake up at 3:30 AM. Climb the Northeast Ridge of Sharkstooth. Step 10: Head to Ed's Catina for celebratory Fish Tacos and margaritas.

Any thoughts on climbs similar to Inwood Arete on Quandary? Could be a fun one for OP. It's a little more hiking than the other ideas here and a little easier.

mountainproject.com/v/inwoo…

edit: after reading the trip reports on that link, maybe adventuring routes similar to Inwood Arete but less crappy?

MarktheCPA wrote: Any thoughts on climbs similar to Inwood Arete on Quandary? Could be a fun one for OP. It's a little more hiking than the other ideas here and a little easier. mountainproject.com/v/inwoo…

Quandary wouldn't be a bad conciliation prize if after Eldo climbing, the OP doesn't feel confident enough on a more technical route.

I've soloed the Inwood Arête. And it's quite mediocre really. With about 300 feet of actual climbing. And a thousand feet of scree wrangling,

My advice is take Aaron up on his offer, otherwise hire a good guide company and take a course in the Cascades, Tetons, Rockies, Sierras, etc......

Aaron Pulda, Durrance is actually on my to-do list. While I could probably do it safely, I still don't feel ready for an endeavor as big as Devils Tower. I'll be practicing this spring (just doing single pitches as two), and I do hope to do Devils Tower this year. Your offer to take me to the mountains sounds awesome! I'm definitely the safe type. I will definitely make those two promises... I'll have to research Liberty Bell.

Blueprint, you definitely just added a few routes to my to-do list.

Tyson Anderson, I was just at Joshua Tree which we opted to do instead of Red Rocks. Next winter I'll go there instead of Joshua Tree.

Also wondering, is my low elevation habitat going to cause me acclimatization problems?

Kyle Robson wrote:- Easy approach is better - Warmer is better - Safer mountain is better

Easy-to-get-to, warm, safe, alpine routes, eh? That's a toughie!

All things being relative, that is. I guess I just want to maximize the warmth, safety, and ease of approach. Like climbing in the sun with a safe approach and a clean, protectable route that won't spit boulders onto my head would be nice.

You're absolutely capable of,climbing the Durrance route. Or any multi pitch. People all the time are just as guilty of underestimating their ability as they are overestimating it,

Can you place trad gear properly?
Can you lead 5.8 trad?
Can you build an anchor?

If you answer yes, then you can do Durrance. Multi-pitch isn't some kind of magical juju that you have to figure out on some epic grail quest. Spend time in your apartment practicing anchor building and belaying off the anchor. Practice the stuff in Freedom of the Hills or another anchor book. Find a climbing gym that will let you practice belay transitions and communication systems on their wall. Practice that again and again.

Then just go climb. Follow you're gut, don't make decisions that you feel hesitant about, and be ready to bail of you feel unsafe. But you're never going to do this stuff without going for it.

Alpine is different, because bailing is more serious, but something like Devil's Tower isn't that intense, but you aren't going to ever get into the alpine if you aren't trying something like Durance to learn

there are numerous routes in the tetons that are not too difficult and fairly safe if you have the experience to have good judgment:

exum ridge, petzoldt ridge, owen spalding, all on the grand
cmc or north ridge on mt. moran
Buckingham ridge on middle Teton

Colorado is loaded with great alpine routes:

kieners or north face on longs peak, ellingwood arête on crestone needle, north face of lone eagle peak, wham ridge on vestal peak, just to name a few.

California is full of great routes as well: east face and buttress of mt. whitney, fishook arête of mt. Russell, so on and so forth

you would be better off to do some easy 14ers in Colorado to get a feel for the altitude, weather changes, how your body reacts. go with someone who knows big mountains. the high ones can kill you in ways you never thought of. there is no way to get away from the fact that people from the flatlands have a completely different mindset because things tend to be smaller and more accessible east of the miss.. in the rockies or tetons or Wasatch or sierras things are remote and big. rescue is more difficult and if you get off route you can easily get to a place where no one will ever find you if you are injured. be safe.

Kyle, just keep in mind if you want to get into the mountains and anything alpine you have to keep in mind you can do everything perfectly and still not be safe 100% of the time. Rocks can come off any route any time.. Mountains are living growing things not really subject to the whim of man. What you do as a climber is learn how to be as safe as possible as often as possible when nature throws shit at you, hopefully while having an amazing time. Just know that while there's no magic juju to multipitch or alpine..... You are adding more and more factors of what can go bad. If you can accept the risk and be ready for it, go knock the durrance, or some long route of your list it will change your life. If you can't accept the risk and responsibility, just keep doing what makes you happy, no one will judge you for it. I'm sure if you mention on here that you want to meet up with someone and knock a dream route off your list, you will get it done.

- Easy approach is better
- Warmer is better
- Safer mountain is better

Are you *sure* you want to do an alpine climb? Because what you just defined is pretty much the opposite.

That being said, if you want to climb something in the mountains, try Sharkstooth in RMNP as already suggested. If that goes well, and you feel like stepping it up, maybe try the South Face of the Petit (you will already kind of know the approach from doing Sharkstooth). Lumpy is close by for cragging and Eldo/Boulder isn't too far.

Yeah, I'm sure. I ask for an easier alpine climb not because I want the easiest and safest climb possible (that'd be the gym 8 minutes away). I ask because it's a goal of mine to try alpine climbing, and I'll have to start somewhere. I really enjoyed Joshua Tree and the hills there (mountains?). I was in the Outer Mongolia area on something pretty high. Not sure if people call that a mountain. It was great. Anyway, something easier and safer is just smarter for someone starting out. If I like alpine climbing, there may be more trips in the future. In the mean time, I'll be practicing... a lot.

Thanks for suggesting the South Face of the Petit. I had actually already put it on my to-do list after reading about Sharkstooth.

Definitely go to Red Rocks. Not technically alpine, but you will feel like you are climbing a mountain, and there's great weather and lots of long, low commitment routes.

If that goes well, consider a trip to the Tetons, RMNP, or the Wind River Range, and start off climbing shorter and easier stuff than you were climbing at Red Rocks, because you will be building more belays, hiking more, and it is more imperative that you finish early.

Pick a goal route, figure out its length and difficulty, and go to a Minnesota crag, preferably trad, and climb enough pitches of similar difficulty to equal the length of the route. Build an anchor between pitches and work on transition efficiency.

It's far from Minnesota, but consider a summer trip to Tuolumne. It's pretty beautiful, with lots of friendly beginner multipitch routes with easy approaches, and some bigger alpine routes in the area.

I don't know a lot about Minnesota, but looking on MP it seems you have an area close by with multipitch trad called Palisade Head that might be a good first stop for dialing down your multipitch trad and transitions before heading into the alpine. Other multipitch crag-like areas near urban areas would be good as well, like red rocks or (my favorite) the gunks in NYC.

I'd also add the advice of taking a self rescue course, or at least practicing the skills, since alpine skills can be so committing. Nothing worse than being stuck in the middle of nowhere and having your rope stuck on rappel and not being able to ascend the rope.

RMNP has some great stuff like others have said; I thought the approach to hallet peak was probably one of the easiest alpine approaches I've ever done (culp-bossier route). Literally takes 1.5 hrs if that. Mt. Whitney in Cali was my first alpine climb, lots of awesome routes nearby too. Or just take a trip to yosemite and do some of the classica there

Wondering how altitude will effect you? If you make it to Colorado I'd suggest at trip up Pikes or Evans . They both have roads to the summit therefore you can drive up to any altitude from 7000'- 14,000' and do some easy hiking to see how your body reacts to altitude(although coming from the east coast to someplace like Estes park will probably give you a day or two worth of suffering)

The plus side to this is you have an easy escape to lower altitude for some relief .also there are some fairly moderate alpine type climbs as well as some good multi pitch trad on Pikes or Evans.

I use Pikes as a precursor to doing anything above 10,000' plus it's worth the admission to just people watch on the summit. I've seen some pretty funny flatlander shit up high .

Personally I'd skip eldo unless you just practicing multi pitch climbing and happen to be in Boulder,something up boulder canyon might be a better choice though. eldo is a great area but it's sandstone where as the Rockies , Sierras, ect are granite or gneiss . Totally different medium and yes it does make a difference.

Interesting story , a couple years back I decided to go climb the petit in RMNP with a friend , it was an easy day trip for us ( 2.5 hr drive and a casual 2 hr approach hike in)
Well we were up a few pitches just about to move out from under the roof when the wind started blowing like hell! I'm not quite sure how hard but if I had to guess I'd say atleast 70mph if not more. We decided to bail as both of us had done this route several times nbd to us . I returned home and the next day was relating the story to another friend who said he had always wanted to climb the petit .well being the guy I am I said I'd be game to go giver sliver again and we made plans to leave the next afternoon .( keep in mind not two days had passed since the first trip in, plus the fact that I didn't sleep much the night before I went in on this second trip)

Well long story short we were three pitches from the top and I got hit with mild altitude sickness , enough to give me one of the worst headaches I've had short of a nitro glycerine headache I'd get handling dynamite back in the days when I worked as an underground miner. Anyway and thankfully my partner was a strong trad multi pitch climber and we decided because of this he would lead out the last two pitches and we could rap from the summit as planned. Everything turned out ok even though I was not functioning 100% . We made the summit , rapped with no issues and hiked out to the car n drove home.
It did take me 3 full days of rest to recover completely .

Bottom line is I would plan some acclimation trips/ time before you head into someplace like RMNP , Sierras or the Cascades.

mountainproject.com/v/sw-ri…

Offer still stands in Washington. That would be our warmup. Liberty bell group is essentially the closest thing you'll get to alpine cragging. Just be ready for soloing low level slab, + Easy but loose death gullies with 3000 ft. Exposure whenever you look back.