Good Ship Venus  5.9- PG13

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110 feet Consensus:  5.9- [details] FA:  Season:  Faces WSW, gets afternoon sun. Submitted By:  Tony B on Oct 30, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

This climb is named after what may be the most bawdy and crude song ever written. The only thing I can think of that comes close is Whores of Balitimore. Remarkably, both can be found on the same album: Rogue's Gallery, a collection of Pirate Ballads, Sea Songs, and Chanteys.

This climb actually has good climbing down low and up high. There is also plenty of solid rock for gear- too bad you have to focus on staying on that and dodging choss. Otherwise it would be a better climb.

Access the ledge from the corner to approach for The Side Wall, Practice Climb 101, and Rhombohedral, move left 10+ meters to below a system of dirty-looking parallel cracks in chunky rock that go perhaps 15m to a tree. Start up the left-most of these with surprisingly good holds and protection (crux) and work progressively to the right to avoid bad rock and the looming tree above.

Clip a sling to the anchors on the tree and look up and right to a tree at 110' off of the ground. Climb up mixed cracks and face trending generally rightward to reach that tree and the fixed raps slings on it.

Rap ~100' to the ground. If you have a short 60m, watch out at the end.

Location 

Start this route from a ledge 10' over the trail as for Rhombohedral, but 10+ meters to the left (uphill).

Protection 

A standard trad rack from med sized nuts to #3 Camalot. A #4 Camalot is optional, but I didn't have it and was fine. Lots of 2' runners though, as this route winds it's way up multiple cracks through ledges and bulges.