Good Samaritans 5.9+
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 175 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9+ [details] |
| FA: | Sean Cobourn, Doug Swords, Allen Irwin- Feb 8, 2009 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Sean Cobourn on Feb 7, 2009 |
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FA pitch 1
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Description P1- Finess your way up the wide crack. Where you want a #5 Camalot you can clip the third bolt on Frankenberry to your right instead. Where obvious, step left onto the fun face passing a bolt and avoiding some nastiness. Face climb up to the halfway ledge and belay in the obvious arching crack. 5.9+?
P2- Climb the big hand crack up to and through the overlap and then cut right to the Frankenberry belay bolts. 5.8+? Rappell the route with two ropes.
Location The formerly vegetated wide crack between Breakfast of Champions and Frankenberry.
Protection Up to # 5 Camalot is nice, if you have one (we did not). Up to #4 will do. 2 bolts (one is third bolt on Frankenberry).
a little higher on P1
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first crux (hint- look up and right)
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| Comments on Good Samaritans |
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By Sean Cobourn
From: Gramling, SC
Feb 7, 2009
| This is the last of the routes to ascend the formerly poison ivy choked wall right of Frosted Flake. A handful of us spent several days over the last few years excavating 5 decent routes and suffered the itchy consequences.
This one will clean up nicely after a couple ascents and a couple rain storms. Look out for some stray loose stones on P2, it is still a tad crispy up there. |
By Jeff Mekolites
From: HOTlanta, GA
Mar 14, 2009
| Climbed this last weekend...good route that doesn't require the wide crack technique it may look like it needs. I used a 4 and a 5. Also, after clipping the bolt, I headed left to the bolts on Breakfast of Champions to lower off of. Sean and all, thanks for cleaning it up. |
By nbrown
From: western NC
Nov 13, 2009
| Jeff, I think that you missed the best part... the upper hand crack. Fun route, hopefully the PI won't overtake it again. I used a new #4 camelot deep in the wide section, but a #5 would have been much better if I'd had it with me. The last overlap in the crack was a bit tricky, especially since it was damp at the time. |
By Edward Medina
Administrator
From: Charlotte, NC
Nov 15, 2009
rating: 5.9 PG13
| The 2nd pitch is excellent. Excellent protection all the way through. Should become a popular route now that it's clean |
By Jeff Jenkins
Nov 28, 2009
rating: 5.9+ PG13
| This route is a lot better than it looks from the ground. The offwigth is not technical then you access the face to your left to a ledge then back to the right to a killer left facing dihedrial. We linked both pitchs and then rapped to B. of Champians anchor to finish the rap. Great climb , seams to have a crux in the face then one in the corner above. A little run out on the face but not too bad. |
By Sean Cobourn
From: Gramling, SC
Dec 28, 2009
| better and more fun to do it as one long pitch. |
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