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Good Routes to prepare for Feline(11b) at Rifle
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By Joe Puglisi
From Glenwood, CO
Jul 9, 2013
my tat design.  All Rights Reserved.
The first time I saw Feline I knew I wanted to climb it. That was over a year ago, and it still seems pretty far away. I was at Rifle yesterday climbing the routes at the Funny Face again and thought, "I need a plan. If this is ever going to happen, I need to work towards it, push myself, get strong, and do it!"

So here's what I need from all you Rifle MFers: Can anyone recommend some 10s and easy 11s at Rifle or nearby crags that climb like it: ie comparable moves/holds, clip positions, etc? Also, maybe some 9s/easy 10s with similar movement that I can do laps on to build endurance for that route.

I know for most of you this is a warm-up that requires 0 preparation. Bravo! You're awesome. I'm not. No need to lambaste me. I just don't want to walk up to it, flail, bail, feel dejected, and never go back to it. I want to get to the point where it's still hard, but feels possible. Thanks!

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By BSheriden
Jul 9, 2013
I guess just jumping on it and working it from bolt to bolt a few times is out of the question? Seriously the best way to get good at climbing it is.... wait for it.... go climb it!

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By Dave C
From Homeless, CO
Jul 9, 2013
Just go flail on it. Also, try not to get annoyed when people use it to warm up. I know that feeling...

It is a great route.

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By Ralph Swansen
From Denver CO
Jul 9, 2013
Escalante Canyon
I am just breaking into onsighting .11's now. I was there yesterday as well and actually climbed Feline. I had to hang twice but anchored. I can think of a few good climbs to try out to train for it that are both on the right side of the Nappy Dugout wall. Both 10.c

PMS - sustained pumpy and thin
PMT - Bouldery movements

These are shorter but laps on them would probably help.

I also think just climbing as many high .10's as you can in Rifle will prepare you and strengthen you to the point that eventually you will be able to onsight .11's

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By Dan White
From Western CO
Jul 9, 2013
There is sometimes a "community" crash pad at Big Bend
Let me know if you are looking for a belayer. I am in Grand Junction now and haven't even made it out to Rifle yet.

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By Jeremy H
Jul 14, 2013
Hi Joe,

I have climbed a ton in the canyon and I think a great route to start on of a similar grade would be cold cuts. It is 11a but has ample rests on it. After climbing cold cuts a few times you should be able to dumb it down so it feels much easier than feline. It will also get you more used to climbing the slightly weird vertical 5.11 climbing in Rifle. Another one that would be a good very approachable 5.11 would be Primer. This one also has many rests (3 no hands rests) so it breaks down quickly. Both of them have fixed draws so they will have low commitment. They are both heavily trafficed so they will help you get used to climbing on polished holds. Just be a little careful on Primer the bolts are spaced a little farther apart.

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By Joe Puglisi
From Glenwood, CO
Jul 15, 2013
my tat design.  All Rights Reserved.
Thanks to those of you with positive comments. These sound like excellent routes to get started on.

If any of you need a belay slave this saturday, let me know. I'll be there...then again, so will everyone else.

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By germsauce
Jul 15, 2013
Hippos kill people
get a TR on feline and do it until your arms fall off. then do it a few more times. 7-8 laps up that thing and you'll have it dialed. then send it.

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By dbyte
From Carbondale, CO
Jul 15, 2013
I wish I could fly...
Note: emphasis is on training for Feline, not on route quality.

10c: Nessum Dorma, Malmstein, PMS
10d: Pellet Gun, Tijuana Crack Whore
11a: Cold Cuts, Gunnery Sergeant Hartman

These are all good pitches to get the endurance you'll need for Feline. Cold Cuts in particular should work great - somewhat steep in parts, with solid rests between varied movements & a definite crux near the top.

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By Patrick Pharo
From Boulder, CO
Jul 16, 2013
pretty hate machine
Jeremy H wrote:
Hi Joe, I have climbed a ton in the canyon and I think a great route to start on of a similar grade would be cold cuts. It is 11a but has ample rests on it. After climbing cold cuts a few times you should be able to dumb it down so it feels much easier than feline. It will also get you more used to climbing the slightly weird vertical 5.11 climbing in Rifle. Another one that would be a good very approachable 5.11 would be Primer. This one also has many rests (3 no hands rests) so it breaks down quickly. Both of them have fixed draws so they will have low commitment. They are both heavily trafficed so they will help you get used to climbing on polished holds. Just be a little careful on Primer the bolts are spaced a little farther apart.


+1

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By slim
Administrator
Jul 16, 2013
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.
quick question, but very important in determining how to go about preparing for your route - do you want to onsight or redpoint the route?

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