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 ADVANCED
13.5 miles
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Good Moki Mojo T 
Positive Mental Attitude (aka PMA) T 

Good Moki Mojo 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 600', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Zack Gerhardt,Luke Douglas,Clark Olsen-10-11-04
New Route: Yes
Season: Whenever you can take the heat
Page Views: 1,819
Submitted By: Luke Douglas on Oct 25, 2008

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BETA PHOTO: The far right route. Red line

  • Leave this area as you find it!
  • DO NOT DISTURB ARTIFACTS,LEAVE NO TRACE

  • Description 

    The crux is pulling the blocky little roof about 30' up the first pitch. After that get ready for several hundred feet of perfect hands to fingers. On the FA the crack was guarded by a whippy tongue of rock about 70' high. It is not still there and our buddy is still alive.

    Location 

    See photo topo. Red line. Descend from slings in trees/bushes at 200' and 400'. If you are going to the ridge just down hike to the uppermost rap station. Bring some back up webbing just in case.

    Protection 

    1 set of Camalots to #3,some extra #2's,yellow alien, and a few nuts.
    Descend from sling anchors at the top of the first two pitches.Two 200 foot long raps!


    Photos of Good Moki Mojo Slideshow Add Photo
    The starting flakes of Good Moki Mojo.
    BETA PHOTO: The starting flakes of Good Moki Mojo.
    My crappy hand drawn topo.
    BETA PHOTO: My crappy hand drawn topo.

    Comments on Good Moki Mojo Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By roman d
    From: Pasadena, CA
    Jun 1, 2010

    choss
    By Jamie Princo
    From: Boulder, CO
    Nov 25, 2011

    agreed! loose, nasty choss slot, not worth one's time or energy.

    jamie
    By Aaron Ihinger
    From: Ridgway,CO
    Nov 25, 2011

    the two neighboring dihedral routes are much safer. This crack system, though aesthetically sublime, is both sandy and brittle. Three feet off the deck I was given fair warning when a chunk of the lie back flake came off in my hand, setting the stage for many more iffy moves to come. The upper half of the first pitch is congested with loose sandy blocks awaiting your trigger toes in order to crush your belayer. If you do bother with this route, bring new slings... the existing look old enough to be original.