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Good intros to 12+ or 13- at NRG?

Original Post
Jon H · · PC, UT · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 118

Last time I was at NRG (almost a year ago), I managed to tick half a dozen easy 12s, but never really got on anything harder than 12a. Since then, I've been training and gotten significantly stronger. I'm heading back for another trip this summer.

Can any of you strongmen and strongwomen (and strong non-gendered individuals as well) recommend some good 12c/d or 13a/b routes at NRG/Summersville that would be good intros to that level of climbing? I'm thinking nice clean falls, closely bolted (yeah, I'm a chickenshit. so what?), no ankle breaking ledges, etc. I'm getting married 1 week after this trip. I'm not trying to hobble down the aisle on crutches.

So who's got some recommendations for me? I tend to excel at steep-ish routes with bouldery sections punctuated by rests, but I'll get on anything. I was thinking of Zelda maybe? Apollo Reed, but that thing is such a monster I doubt I'll be able to put it all together in a long weekend.

Drop some knowledge on me!

Pnelson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 635

For the summertime and what you're looking for, it is all about Apollo Reed. Other candidates would be Made in the Shade at Area 51, Slash and Burn at Kaymor, Super Mario and Black Rider/Pocket Route at Endless. But really, Apollo is the one to do and will be most enjoyable for summer. Permadraws, no tweaky moves, and a lake to jump in!

Chris Whisenhunt · · Fayetteville, WV · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 995

Buy Mikey's book and look at all of the 4-star routes. He pretty much has it dialed for the area.

Drew Hayes · · Charlotte, NC · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 110

I'm also starting to try to break into this grade at the New, so I don't have a lot of recommendations. Apollo's fun (really fun... really really fun) but you have to be able to hang on forever. Sanctified at Kaymoor is really fun, I only had time for one burn to work out the beta but it's totally doable - the crux is v5 immediately into a v2/3, then a really good rest followed by extremely fun 5.11 climbing up a a flake/sidepull feature on a beautiful blunt arete. The bolts on the arete are far apart but you probably won't fall here.

ChrisHau · · Minneapolis, MN · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 475

I think I used to see you around Earth Treks Rockville before you bailed to the promised land. Good to hear you're getting even stronger!

Sanctified is a great line, but crimpy and temperamental in the heat.

At Lower Meadow, Puppy Chow 12c might be one of the best lines I've been on of any grade, period. It'll make the trip worth it if you just get on this route. Classic boulder problems with rests right where you need them on the Meadow's amazing stone. If I had to recommend one, this would be it.

I haven't seen mention of the Hole yet - Lactic Acid Bath is a classic burlfest at 12d, and it'll stay cool in the sweaty armpit that is the New during summer.

Zelda is a one-move wonder. Nice if you're chasing the grade, but I didn't feel like I got the full 13 experience on that one. It's fun, but there are better lines out there, especially with a limited weekend.

Otherwise, another vote for Apollo - there's a reason why it's got hordes of people on it all the time. Pod and Mercy are both a definite step harder, and of differing characters. Pod's more a power enduro challenge, and Mercy's more bouldery. Both require some hanging-on ability though.

Jon H · · PC, UT · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 118

Hey Chris - yeah that was me at ET back in the day. I'll actually be there this Tuesday evening as I pass through DC on a work trip. Come say hi!

Thanks everyone for your suggestions. I'll be sure to update this thread with some results and spraaaay.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern States
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