|White Cliffs of Dover - Left Side
Start right of Popular Mechanics and climb past a bolt and a gear placement (2" piece) to access the first of five bolts which lead up the slabby arete and ends in the upper reaches of the Popular Mechanics dihedral (gear belay here). Use the fixed anchors of Popular Mechanics to rap back to the base.
The climbing is balancy, footwork intensive and a nice counterpoint to the nearby cracks. Another quality Gaines route and a nice addition to the area. Three stars out of five.
This is the face to arete just right of Popular Mechanics.
5 bolts (3/8"), pro to 3"
upper crux on good house keeping
Mike Holley pulling one of the many cruxes on the ...
|By Vernon Stiefel|
Feb 11, 2004
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
I remember more than one technical crux on this fine route. Three out of five stars.
|By Mark J Gain|
Apr 17, 2005
Felt like 5.10 to me. Good rock and cool arete.
From: Joshua Tree, California
May 22, 2011
If this route felt like 5.10a to you or anyone else....you were on the wrong route....
|By Jack Ziegler|
From: Golden, CO
Feb 9, 2012
seems like this route would be waaaay easier for people over 6ft. I was baffled by the crux halfway up
|By Lucas Dunn|
From: San Marcos
Oct 22, 2012
Really high quality route. the moves to make the 2nd bolt are really committing unless you protect the crack with a cam and a sling. Bad rope drag potential if you clip the wrong bolts, or don't extend the bolts properly before you start the upper ArÍte. Defiantly not 5.10, unless you want to down grade every 5.10 in the park.
|By Mike Holley|
From: Boone, NC
Dec 6, 2012
Freaking Amazing route!! Excellent Rock quality, different then a lot of stuff at J-Tree. Well protected (make sure to bring a medium size piece and sling it long between the first and second bolt)! Fun Techy moves on a beautiful arete and face. I am 6'1 and I found the route just perfect for my stature! Send On!!!!