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Cryptic Trip T 
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Good Heavens T 
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S. D. Modiano T 
Turkey Beard T 

Good Heavens 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 500', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Bob Mitchell and Bob Gillespie - 1970
Page Views: 2,886
Submitted By: Rob Rives on Sep 21, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Linville bites back. This is what one must endure...
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Description 

A rarely traveled Linville gem. This is a great alternative to the Mummy and Daddy on busy weekends, as long as you can deal with all the lichen on the second half of the route. The first two pitches are gold!

P1 - Climb the very obvious dihedral to a small tree (100 ft)
P2 - Continue up the dihedral, eventually busting around to the right of the huge roof. Gear belay above roof (100 ft)
P3 - Climb to the next ledge, belay in trees (50 ft)
P4 - Climb the face directly off of the ledge, then drift through the left-leaning dihedral to another large ledge (90 ft)
P5 - Climb/scramble to the top (50-150 ft)


Location 

Hike about five minutes down past the base of the Daddy to a very obvious, long, right-arching dihedral.


Protection 

All belays and pro are natural or gear, no bolts here!



Photos of Good Heavens Slideshow Add Photo
Start of Good Heavens
BETA PHOTO: Start of Good Heavens
Mike Reardon following the first pitch of Good Heavens
Mike Reardon following the first pitch of Good Hea...
Exiting the P2 dihedral.
Exiting the P2 dihedral.
Comments on Good Heavens Add Comment
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By Coz Teplitz
From: Watertown, MA
Nov 11, 2010

There's a really cool variation that leads you into the heart of the cliff! Somewhere around P3 (above the roof, IIRC) head a little left toward a chimney that has a small tree growing out of it. Move into and up this chimney a short distance, then suck in your gut and dive straight back, into the cliff. (Well, don't dive - you just chimney sideways.) I've heard this called 5.8, but it's just awkward. Like most chimneys, it's secure. After a short distance (<50ft?) you'll end up in a neat room. Climb up and out the top, and wander to the top of the wall (easy climbing once you finish the squeeze).

Have fun, and have an adventure!

By Jacob Cioffoletti
From: Morganton NC
Nov 28, 2010

This route was in an accident on 11/24/10. A climbing group of three decided to combine pitches two and three. They lost communication between the leader and the other two. Climbed it the other day in horrible 30 mph winds communication was limited and the use of radios were essential for commands.

By Jonathan Dull
From: NC High County
Apr 28, 2014

There is a large loose block on the second pitch just before you traverse out right and under the roof, just a heads up. I used a #4 Camalot several times but the route protects fine without one. Overall a great mellow romp up an impressive arching corning. The P4 variation sounds like the best way to finish the route and to add a degree of difficulty and keep things interesting after the first few pitches. We didn't bring a guidebook so missed out on the P4 variation, next time we'll finish this way for sure.

Note: I found a belay device while on route. PM me if it belongs to you and I'll make sure you get it back.