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Sobo
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Bo Diddley T 
Cruising for Bulgar T 
Dreams Of Darkness T 
Dreams Of Light T 
Good Cleavage T 
Marsupial T 
Reckless Abandoned T,TR 
Seamed Like Fun. T,TR 
Sick and Wrong T 
Sugar Glider T 

Good Cleavage 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: R. [Rossiter] & T. Hogan, 1981
Page Views: 978
Submitted By: Tony B on Feb 23, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Layin' it back. Photo: Mark Roth.

Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Once you reach Sobo, the Southwest-facing prow is obvious. Good Cleavage is a stellar crack and right-facing dihedral system that ascends the right side of the prow. Although the crack in the dihedral looks wide, a finger crack runs up the right side of the dihedral near the corner for most of the length of the climb. While some large gear is [desirable], an offwidth rack is hardly necessary. A solid 5.9 leader could probably manage with all smaller gear, though there might be some space between the leader and the gear for wide move or two.

Begin on thin moves near the ground, getting into the dihedral system and cruise up the sustained 5.8 and 5.8 climbing to the top of the dihedral. You will come to a broken dike that can be passed on the right and up to a belay above a large juniper, or [traversed] up and left to a summit belay on the walk-off ledge. The summit belay is most easily set on a few stoppers and 3" cams - so take an extra of that size.

To descend, walk up and left (North) around the corner on the obvious ledge to a series of trees and rap as described in the 'rock' page for Sobo.

Protection 

A set of TCUs, cams up to a #4 Friend, and a set of stoppers.


Photos of Good Cleavage Slideshow Add Photo
Tony Bubb leads the upper part of Good Cleavage, a...
Tony Bubb leads the upper part of Good Cleavage, a...
Tony Bubb leads Good Cleavage, at Sobo.  Photo by ...
Tony Bubb leads Good Cleavage, at Sobo. Photo by ...
A view from the ground of Tony Bubb starting into ...
A view from the ground of Tony Bubb starting into ...
Steve Monks leading Cleavage.
Steve Monks leading Cleavage.

Comments on Good Cleavage Add Comment
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By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 12, 2002

This is a fun pitch, I don't think we took anything larger than a #3 Camalot. Only drawback is the long walk for just one pitch. Best to do all the climbs on SoBo when you walk up here ...