Good Beginning Trad Lines in Rock Canyon
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I'm looking for some recommendations for good beginning trad lines in Rock Canyon. What would be preferable would be a place that I could set up a top rope with a second rope. I want to practice placements and also do some fall testing, so that would for sure be ideal. Any suggestions? |
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Dave Rackham wrote: I want to practice placements and also do some fall testing,Not the best idea. Gear is made to be fallen on, but it can definitely funk it up if you take big whips. Prepare for sticky lobes. Also, prepare to be flamed ... you posted on mp.com. |
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Bring your rack with you every time you go climbing and practice placing gear wherever you can find a nice crack. weight the pieces and try some mini-aid climbing, and you will notice that when your leading your choice of piece will come a little bit faster which in turn will cool you head and allow you to have more fun. practice making equalized anchors with your cord as well with your buddies its always fun to see who can make the cleanest anchor in the shortest amount of time! |
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Thanks for the input. I understand the inherit risk of damaging lobes etc. by taking falls on the gear. On cam placements the plan is to do the aid testing as mentioned by Greg. On nut placements I'm not as concerned about the gear. Any suggestions on routes? I've used the "Whats best for me in this area" search feature for Rock Canyon and have some potential areas (Ed & Terry, Tinker Toys, Kitchen etc.) but wanted to see if there were any other suggestions. |
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Rock Canyon has all kinds of really good routes in it. For gear I would go do the main crack on Ed and Terry's. There is a really good 5.6 on the North end of Green Monster. If you are up for it Green monster is one of my favorite climbs in the canyon. And the Kitchen is always a great place for at least 3 good moderate gear climbs. |
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I would put my vote on Ed and Terry and the Green Monster. If you hike up past tinker toys you can get to the anchors at the top of the green monster and set up a top rope. You could place gear but I wouldn't recommend taking practice falls on top rope. |
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For a short easy approach try Tinker Toys. |
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PA's mother has a good, easy crack as well that you can top rope and work on gear placement. Similar to Ed & Terry's main crack, but shorter. |