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Good all around backpacking/ easy alpine boot

Original Post
daniel arthur · · Auburn,Al · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 35

I am looking for an all around boot for backpacking and easy alpine climbs. I a
Looking at Salewa mountain trainer mid gtx. A couple of concerns I have with these boots are:
1. The material used on the uppers looks like it might get saturated and have trouble drying out in an alpine environment.
2. Maybe a little too flexible for strap on crampons, obviously not intended for vertical ice, but would be nice to be able to use them when crossing glaciers or low to mid angle snow.

Does anyone have any experience with these boots? Or any suggestions to a good all around pair? Any help would be appreciated.

Martin le Roux · · Superior, CO · Joined Jul 2003 · Points: 401

It depends what you mean by "easy alpine". A boot like this could work for climbs that are mostly rock scambles with a few short stretches of easy snow, although it may not be very durable. But if you'll be spending more time on snow or ice then you'll probably be better off in a sturdier boot that's meant for crampons (i.e. a boot that at least has a heel welt). On the other hand, a boot that's designed for crampons would be overkill for simple backpacking.

Mark Wyss · · Denver, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 255

I have a pair of Sprtiva Makalus for this purpose. The sole is pretty stiff but the boots are crampon compatible and have plenty of flex for backpacking (might take some patience breaking them in). I used them in the tetons a long time ago and they did pretty good. The Sportiva Glacier is a similar boot (I don't think its as rugged, check the site to make sure). The Karakorum is another in that same 'class'.

Sportiva boots fit me pretty well so I normally stick with that brand. Makalus are classic and Sportiva has been making them for years. Mine have countless miles on them, no problems, just had to buy some superfeet a while back.

There are a ton of other brands out there that make great boots and I am not familiar with Salewa. I would go to a shop and try on a few pairs. Good luck on the search!

sportiva.com/

Dobson · · Butte, MT · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 215

I have found that no single piece of footwear is going to make you happy in the alpine. You will want to develop a variable system.

Lately I've been wearing trail runners on the trail and switching into appropriate footwear on the climb itself. This keeps my feet happy and I don't have to compromise when climbing. As a bonus, the extra sensitivity of trail runners keeps me more stable than when I wear heavy boots.

Here are a few examples from popular recent climbs that worked well:

Spying and Flying, Cody (III WI4) - Trail runners with micro-spikes on the verglassed trail, switching to Nepals and crampons for the climb. My partner approached in his Nepals, and was sliding all over the verglass. His feet were hamburger by the end as well.

North Ridge of Stuart (III 5.9)- Trail runners to base camp, approach shoes (Gandas) for the approach, climb, and descent. I put shopping bags and crampons on my shoes for the glacier.

Evolution Traverse (VI 5.9) -Trail runners for the ten mile approach that included moderate snow (no crampons, but my booted partner kicked steps) and endless talus, and Gandas for the entire climb.

Elephant's Perch, Beckey Direct (IV 5.11) - Trail runners for approach and descent, Acopa JBs for the climb. (My partner brought Vibram Five Fingers for the descent and they worked great.)

East Ridge of Edith Cavell (III Alpine, 5.3) - Garmont Towers (like the Trango S) for the whole thing. I feel that anything less supportive would have been hell on the icy sections. I would have preferred my Contact crampons to the Sabertooths I brought. We took the long way back down and my feet were wishing I had brought comfy trail shoes.

I hope this was helpful. Remember that this is just what happened to work for me. Everyone will have different needs and preferences.

Bang Nhan · · Charlottesville, VA · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 35

Salewa Mnt Trainer GTX, no back wedge for crampons, but it's outsole is Vibram, which is used for most 3-season mountaineering boots in the market. I have used it for backpacking, scrambling. salewa.us/product/footwear/…

Or if you want a back wedge for the crampons, try Salewa MS Rapace GTX, salewa.us/product/footwear/…

Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,520

Whatever you choose, avoid going with an all leather boot unless you somehow have delevoped a meaningful and trusting relationship with a pair.

Nylon fabric with leather is best. No break in time to speak of and won't give you blisters.

Peter Blank · · Grand Junction, Colorado · Joined May 2008 · Points: 720

The red "Air Sportivas" are the finest boots I've ever owned.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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