Good Advice You Just Didn't Take
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|Type: ||Trad, 1 pitch, 45 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.8+ [details]|
|FA: ||Micah Isaac & T. Bubb, 6/26/11|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Faces North|
|Submitted By: ||Tony B on Jun 30, 2011|
BETA PHOTO: 'The Good Advice You Just Didn't Take" is the righ...
This route was named because on the solo F.A. attempt, Tony got up into a move he didn't like solo and didn't do it, soloing back down and deciding to wait for a rope of a cleaning brush. A few weeks later, he brought Micah up and Tony offered Micah his choice of leads - and Micah picked this one. So, now who can guess what musician Micah had in mind that day?
This route climbs up from just right of the 10' pine growing at the base and then fights to the right to establish the climber in the flake and crack to the left of the top of the tree (crux #1). From there, a few mellow moves lead up to a reachy slab move (second crux) to get established on larger holds again. Climb up the slab and over the top on good holds but increasingly above gear to a belay.
To descend, head up and right for a ways and then down into a chimney/slot system that will deposit you on the ground West of the start a ways.
Gear from fingers to hand-sized.
This route is the middle route in the central area of the North Face of the 3rd Advisor. See "Free Advice" for more details and a photo.