|Book Cliffs is used by the Boy Scouts; please avoid Camp Steiner and be courteous.|
Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>
The route described here may be a slight variation of that described in Smith’s and Tustig’s 2004 guide. Toward the right (eastern) side of Book Cliffs is a striking, but short (about 30 feet), square-cut face with an arete on its right margin. Start about 10-15 feet left of the arete (not just right of the arete as described in the guide – that route is Hero Maker (5.11a)). Climb a disjointed crack system to its end, step right, then face climb to the top. The guide indicates that Gone With the WInd may be on the cleaner face between the disjointed crack system and the arete, but that line appears a bit harder than 5.7 and may be more difficult to protect – although it looks like the better route!
Smith and Tustig in their guide say that the section of the cliff with Gone With the Wind is used regularly by the Boy Scouts, and they encourage climbers to go elsewhere when the scouts are there. Makes sense to me.
Right (eastern) side of Book Cliffs, left of an obvious arete with four bolts (Hero Maker).
Protects decently with a good range of cams (micros up). Belay from two bolts several feet to the east. Scramble down a short gully to the east to descend.