Gone in 60 Seconds V8
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| Type: | Boulder, 12 feet |
| Consensus: | V8 [details] |
| FA: | Jeff Rabinowitz |
| Submitted By: | BDalhaus on Feb 11, 2008 |
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Description Climbs a bulge via really bad holds. Sit/squat start with the two crimps at waist height. Move up R hand to a sloper/crimp, then match next to it on a sloper. Work your feet and make a hard move to a crimp (crux). Stand up on the crimps and topout. Named for a hold that ripped off.
Location On the far end of the Zoo away from the trail
Protection Pad
| Comments on Gone in 60 Seconds |
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By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Feb 11, 2008
| FA. Jeff Rabinowitz (spelling?) |
By Ladd Raine Administrator From: Plymouth, NH Feb 14, 2008
| yup, that is how Jeff spells his name. |
By andyscott From: Massachusetts Dec 20, 2009
| crux move is sooo frustrating.....anyone have any beta for it ? |
By Lanky From: Portland, ME Dec 21, 2009 rating: V8
| My beta: Pull off ground and go right hand to bad crimp. Heel hook left arete, pull hips in, bring left hand up to sloper. Delicate foot move to get right foot on a higher nub close to left arete (back-step-ish). Sag a little and lunge for the high edge w/ right hand, keeping as much tension as possible so right foot doesn't cut. Swing/hop right foot up high, rock up on that foot, and top out. This might be better for taller climbers (I'm just under 5'11"). |
By andyscott From: Massachusetts Dec 22, 2009
| Thanks a lot I would never have thought of that beta. I was just trying to go to the crimp with my right foot high directly underneath me. When you do that rightfoot backstep to go to the crimp is the left foot still heelhooked on the left arete? |
By Lanky From: Portland, ME Dec 23, 2009 rating: V8
| Yeah, I think I keep the heel, but it might come off when I hit the edge. |
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