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Gone in 60 Seconds 

Hueco: V8 Font: 7B

Type:  Boulder, 12'
Consensus:  Hueco: V8 Font: 7B [details]
FA: Jeff Rabinowitz
Page Views: 1,052
Submitted By: BDalhaus on Feb 11, 2008

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Climbs a bulge via really bad holds. Sit/squat start with the two crimps at waist height. Move up R hand to a sloper/crimp, then match next to it on a sloper. Work your feet and make a hard move to a crimp (crux). Stand up on the crimps and topout.

Named for a hold that ripped off.


On the far end of the Zoo away from the trail



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By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Feb 11, 2008

FA. Jeff Rabinowitz (spelling?)
By Ladd
Feb 14, 2008

yup, that is how Jeff spells his name.
By andyscott
From: Massachusetts
Dec 20, 2009

crux move is sooo frustrating.....anyone have any beta for it ?
By Lanky
From: Tired
Dec 21, 2009
rating: V8 7B

My beta: Pull off ground and go right hand to bad crimp. Heel hook left arete, pull hips in, bring left hand up to sloper. Delicate foot move to get right foot on a higher nub close to left arete (back-step-ish). Sag a little and lunge for the high edge w/ right hand, keeping as much tension as possible so right foot doesn't cut. Swing/hop right foot up high, rock up on that foot, and top out.

This might be better for taller climbers (I'm just under 5'11").
By andyscott
From: Massachusetts
Dec 22, 2009

Thanks a lot I would never have thought of that beta. I was just trying to go to the crimp with my right foot high directly underneath me. When you do that rightfoot backstep to go to the crimp is the left foot still heelhooked on the left arete?
By Lanky
From: Tired
Dec 23, 2009
rating: V8 7B

Yeah, I think I keep the heel, but it might come off when I hit the edge.
By eddysamson
Nov 10, 2014

That left heel is money for getting the left hand match on the slopey shelf. I'm not quite sure what to do after that, though. I was trying to crank down on my heel and stand up and slap the left side of the bulge on top but that didn't work and the heel only stays like 1/5 times.

Anyone know where I can find some video of this problem?
By Troy Fauteux
From: Hopkinton NH
1 day ago

This thing stumped me for a while. A very bad heal hook and hard crux move shut me down for well over an hour. Footage of this problem starts at 4:12 if you wanna see what I did.

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