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Dairy Queen Wall - Left Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Brazier Food 
Chili Dog 
Double Delight 
Faith Healer 
Five Tree 
Foot Massage, The 
Get Right or Get Left (aka Addams Family) 
Gomez 
Leap Erickson 
Leap of Faith 
Leap Year Flake 
Look Before You Leap 
Lurch 
Mojus (aka Slushie), The 
Norm 
Pat Adams Dihedral 
Snake Oil 
Tofutti 
Toxic Waltz 

Gomez 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: (TR) Todd Swain, October 1989, FL: Chris Miller, 1998
Page Views: 411
Submitted By: C Miller on Oct 20, 2006
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Description 

Climbs a steepening slab to vertical headwall (5.11) before entering a steep but featured crack system (5.8). Angle left to the chain anchors on Get Right or Get Left, or gear belay and scramble/climb left to access the anchors to rap (100' rap!).

Note: A huge piece of rock has fallen from this route making it much harder than it's original 5.10a rating.

Enjoyable climbing on quality rock, and in a locale that sees little traffic make this a good tick for the grade if in the area. Two stars out of five.


Location 

Starts just right of Get Right or Get Left (aka Addams Family).


Protection 

4 bolts (all 3/8"), gear to 2.5"



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By C Miller
Administrator
Oct 20, 2006

The newest Joshua Tree guide (JT West) mistakenly lists this as having only three bolts.

By Bo Johnston
Oct 24, 2006

...and Vogel didn't even have you listed for the FA(Lead) Chris!! LOL Where's the love?

By Randy
Oct 25, 2006

What is with that Vogel guy anyway?

Actually, a guide is only as good as the info provided by others -- I don't personally climb every route.

Any omission was purely unintentioned.

By C Miller
Administrator
Oct 5, 2008

A major portion of the roof below bolt #4 has fallen off making this route much harder than 5.10a. To keep the route at it's original 5.10a rating traverse left into Get Right or Get Left after clipping the 4th bolt and then back right when able to latch the fin which leads into the right crack system. The route still goes direct but is about 5.11 or so and not as enjoyable as before.

By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Dec 6, 2008
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

Thanks for the info Chris - that certainly explains it - I did this route today (12/6/08) and immediately knew I wasn't in 5.10a territory, felt like 5.11+ to me too, Also, clipping the quickdraw at the fourth bolt - pretty tricky...