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Gomez the Cat T 
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Kitty Crack T 

Gomez the Cat 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
Page Views: 107
Submitted By: jim.dangle on Aug 20, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Gomez the Cat, 5.5.


This is one of Cape Ann's nicer crack climbs!

Gomez the Cat is a little reminiscent of Tin Man but milder being lower angle. It follows a gently widening top to bottom crack that goes from incipient seam to off-size fingers. The bottom of the crack is too thin for gear so friction easily up to a nice stance and place pro. This is a sweet, mellow climb named in memory of a sweet, mellow guy and an ideal first lead. The crux might be the opening mantle.

The climb has just recently been cleaned, so the condition will only improve with more use.


This is the fairly obvious cleaned off crack nearer the right end of the Pet Slabs, which are not big.

The top can be reached easily from the ramp at the right.


It is definitely G-rated; however, the tentative (and the short) may benefit from having microcams at the start. Otherwise this will protect well with regular cams in the smaller range. You place them in ascending order as the crack widens. Nut placements are a little trickier given the mostly parallel nature of the crack.

There are no fixed anchors at the top, but there are trees set far back for TRing (long slings). An anchor can be built at a crack at the top, but watch that the rope doesn't become stuck in the crack when lowering or belaying.

Photos of Gomez the Cat Slideshow Add Photo
Kristen on Gomez the Cat, her first gear lead.
Kristen on Gomez the Cat, her first gear lead.

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