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Routes in Furry Face
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Gomez the Cat T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Juno! TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Kitty Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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| Type: | Trad |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 994 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | jim.dangle on Aug 20, 2013 |
| Admins: | Derek Sullivan, Old Timer, jim.dangle, Joe M |
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Description
This is one of Cape Ann's nicer crack climbs!
Gomez the Cat is a little reminiscent of Tin Man but milder being lower angle. It follows a gently widening top to bottom crack that goes from incipient seam to off-size fingers. The bottom of the crack is too thin for gear so friction easily up to a nice stance and place pro. This is a sweet, mellow climb named in memory of a sweet, mellow guy and an ideal first lead. The crux might be the opening mantle.
The climb has just recently been cleaned, so the condition will only improve with more use.
Gomez the Cat is a little reminiscent of Tin Man but milder being lower angle. It follows a gently widening top to bottom crack that goes from incipient seam to off-size fingers. The bottom of the crack is too thin for gear so friction easily up to a nice stance and place pro. This is a sweet, mellow climb named in memory of a sweet, mellow guy and an ideal first lead. The crux might be the opening mantle.
The climb has just recently been cleaned, so the condition will only improve with more use.
Location
This is the fairly obvious cleaned off crack nearer the right end of the Pet Slabs, which are not big.
The top can be reached easily from the ramp at the right.
The top can be reached easily from the ramp at the right.
Protection
It is definitely G-rated; however, the tentative (and the short) may benefit from having microcams at the start. Otherwise this will protect well with regular cams in the smaller range. You place them in ascending order as the crack widens. Nut placements are a little trickier given the mostly parallel nature of the crack.
2 bolts at the top.
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