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Short, steep routes in a secluded alcove. Often buggy in the Summer. The cave is broken up into 2 sections. The lower section will be the 1st you come to if arriving from the west. It features Master of Reality, a classic & testy 5.12 roof crack. The upper section gets more sun. It contains Escher's Staircase, 1 of the steeper 5.10s on the Pass.
Park at the Grottos Day Use area. Follow the trail over the bridge & go left shortly after the Ice Caves trail intersection (~1/4 mile). Descend into the lower lefthand end of the Cave. A 5-minute walk at most.
10 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Gollum's Cave
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Gollum's Cave:
Choke Hold V10-11 8A Boulder, 20'
Escher's Staircase 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Bilbo Baggins 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
The Dragon's Hoard (tenative name) 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 35'
My Precioussss 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Master of Reality 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 45'
Featured Route For Gollum's Cave
Choke Hold V10-11 8A CO : Independence Pass : ... : Gollum's Cave
This has really cool climbing out a huge, horizontal roof. Start on a detached block at the back of the cave, get a heel-toe cam, lean WAAY back and reach NO HANDED to jug slopers. Climb out the roof passing an awesome pinch. Climb into the top out of We Squeezes. Long-ish!...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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