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Rebolting Face
Routes Sorted
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David T 
Delila T 
Diamond Lane T 
Escalator, The T 
Goliath T 
Mogen David T 
Playing on the Freeway T 
Rap Flake T 
Rebolting Development T 
Reckless Driving T 
Season's End T 

Goliath 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Charlie Raymond & Pat Callis, June 1966
Page Views: 577
Submitted By: tom donnelly on Oct 19, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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the start of the chimney

Description 

First do an easy approach pitch, shared with David. The second pitch goes up the chimney. It's easier if you don't wedge yourself in too tightly. It's also easier on a cold day when you can wear more clothing to protect your skin.
The best finish is up the 5.8 handcrack.


Location 

On the far right of weeping wall, right of Sampson. Or on the far left side of Rebolting Face.


Protection 

1/2 inch to 4 inch.



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Where the chimney gets wider
Where the chimney gets wider
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By Ryan Strickland
From: Idyllwild, CA
May 5, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Followed my friend up this one. Chimney was strenuous and awkward to clean. Hand crack finish was really cool, but it felt pretty stout for 5.8. The hand crack felt like the mirror opposite of Flower of High Rank above the tree, except the Goliath crack was harder for me.

By Phil Esra
May 31, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Did this immediately after Hot Buttered Rump (10a chimney). HBR felt soft for the grade and this one felt stiff. Thing is, Goliath is pretty much the exact same chimney technique (left foot heel-toe, right knee/sole bridge) for over 100 feet. Which is rad, but tiring. Save a big cam (#3 might work, but 4 or 5 would be better) for the last 20' before the hand crack, because the flare gets wider here and the climbing is therefore more strenuous (plus, you're tired).

Gotta do the hand crack finish, but agree with Ryan that the start of it is really burly for 5.8. (My follower used an edge out right somewhere that I missed.)

rap anchor 20' to the right at the top. 3 raps to the ground, or a 70m rope from the 2nd rap will put you 15' off the ground on the elevator, 5.6.

By Tradoholic
Jun 25, 2014

OMG, do yourself a favor and use the lip at the start of the chimney, left foot on slap right foot and hands on lip, WAY easier! Follow a bomber flake into the wider part of the chimney and then enjoy. Runout but easy chimney from there.