This is the spire in front of the Mushroom that you see on the way to Earth Angel. It's a fun little adventure. Most of the climbing is 5.6 and under until the last move, which unless you hang out at Kelly Canyon a lot is a major sandbag at 5.9. Pitch 1 is shady, but the rest of the route is in the sun.
Pitch 1) 5.6 80' Start at the high point of the notch, and climb the easy chimney/flare into a spooky place. The crux is at a little rooflet. Either belay in the spooky place, or traverse left a bit and belay on a cool ledge.
Pitch 2) 5.6 100' Do not climb the choss above your head!! Traverse the limestone band left (south) half-way around the spire. Belay when you can no longer pull the rope. Most of the gear on the traverse is at your feet, in the limestone.
Pitch 3) 5.6 120' Find an easy chimney to go up on the right side of a pillar (left side also looks climbable). Go up to ledgy terrain and build a belay under the bolt on the summit block. Belay takes blue and black aliens (and you can use the bolt)
Pitch 4) 5.9+ 20' Clip the bolt and claw your way past a very strenuous mantle.
Descent: 3 raps to the notch.
Rap 1: 20' Rap off the summit block. The bolts were naked and un-rappable when we were there. After scratching our heads for a while we left webbing but no rap rings, so bring your own stuff. It now occurs to me that the party that placed the bolts must have simul-rapped the summit block.
Rap 2: 20' Rap off a slung block to a 2 bolt anchor at the top of a chimney.
Rap 3: 150' Back to your packs.
From the parking at the end of Jordon Road: drop into the wash and follow the wash north for 1.5 miles until you see the Mushroom and Goliath on your right. There is a very large and open wash inbetween the Mushroom and Goliath. Follow this for a little ways. When possable traverse left into a side-wash that goes up the left (north) side of Goliath. DO NOT go up the main wash on the right side of Goliath. I can tell you from experience this sucks. The route starts at the high point of the notch on the east side of the spire.
Nuts, 2 each blue Alien to #3 Camalot. Much smaller than your typical Sedona rack.
BETA PHOTO: Goliath.
BETA PHOTO: The approach goes up this drainage, then crosses l...
View from the end of the 2nd pitch
|By Kole DeCou|
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 12, 2007
Well the guidebook sais you can rap off before the summit and then it's 5.6. This is true but it's a spire climb, rapping off 20 ft. before the summit would be admiting defeat! The hard move might be aid-able by stepping on sling on the bolt, or by doing a good old-fashioned shoulder-stand. If this doesn't work maybe you can toss the rope over the top. I'm sure a persistant 5.6 climber can figure out a way to summit.
From: Lakewood Colorado
Nov 27, 2007
This isn't a bad climb, the first pitch provides a fairly runout traverse, so good. the second pitch is a cool exposed traverse
|By roman d|
From: Pasadena, CA
Feb 24, 2009
From the summit, you can easily rap down (1 rope) to the chain anchors at the top of the big chimney, skipping the slung boulder.
From: Surprise, AZ
Jun 1, 2009
Fun climb and a bit exciting on the 2nd pitch. May need to break up pitch 3 due to rope drag. Pro opportunities are somewhat sparse (except on the 2nd pitch). We aided the difficult mantle move at the end with an impromptu made etrier of webbing to summit (good suggestion Kole). You can skip the 2nd rap (slung boulder) but the rope could get hung up when you pull it, fortunately that didn't happen to us. The climb starts at N34.9049 W111.768.
From: Phoenix, AZ
Jul 27, 2011
A 9.8mm 70 m rope with stretch gets you to within a few feet of the base from the chain anchors. Easy downclimb. There is also a stout cord with rap ring slung around part of the limestone band directly below the anchors, enabling a single 50m rope descent with 3 raps from top.
|By Alex Wood|
From: Flagstaff, Arizona
Mar 1, 2012
Very chossy first pitch if you follow the crack up the whole way. At the "rooflet" I would recomend traversing left (maybe this is what everyone did except us). The traverse was interesting and scary. The gear placements aren't the best around the crux part of the traverse. Fun route with awesome views!
|By Paul Zander|
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 31, 2013
This is a fun, adventurous route in a great setting, and because the crux move is easily aided, this is one of the finest multipitch routes in NAZ for a 5.6/7 leader.
The approach was well cairned after leaving the main wash of Mormon Canyon.
P1: I'd recommend traversing left on a broad, rounded ledge about 20 feet below the obvious blocky roof. Keeps the grade to about 5.5, though pro is sparse. We belayed on a large ledge with a bush and pin/nut anchor directly below the limestone ledge and well left of the 'spooky' place
P2: 5.4 exposed traverse
P3: Favorite pitch. Chimney to dihedral to small roof, which I found to be the crux of the first three pitches. 5.6
P4: We aided the mantle move using a couple slings
For a rack, I'd recommend a set from #0 Metolius to #3 C4, with doubles from #2 Metolius to #2 C4. Nuts and tricams can also work well for the smaller sizes.