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South/Southeast (Right) Face
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B.F.G., The S 
Flotsam & Jetsam S 
Golden Stairs S 
Goliath S 
Hippogriff S 
Medusa S 
Shipwrecked S 

Goliath 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Adam Read
Page Views: 8,275
Submitted By: DisturbingThePeace on Sep 11, 2006

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Matthew NM on the jugs just past the lower crux of...
Thompson Canyon MORE INFO >>>

Description 

An amazing line. Start up Golden Stairs and continue up arete. Pass through some technical moves on the arete to a decent rest. Rest up and continue up to the mid anchor then fight the pump through the overhang, another decent but strenuous rest can be had here. Move past the overhang and onto the arete and pull the crux moves to get established on the finishing slab. The crux moves while only V3+ or so, feel much more difficult after all that climbing to get there. To the mid anchors is David 12c a great route on it's own.


Location 

Shares start with Golden stairs, between Medusa and Ripped Van Winkle


Protection 

17 bolts + Anchors. For rope drag unclip the first 3 bolts on starting slab, and use long draws on mid anchor and the next 2 bolts. A 70m rope is mandatory to lower off without using the mid-anchors.



Photos of Goliath Slideshow Add Photo
Ahhhh, not this time! Going for the whipper on David (1st pitch of Goliath). <br /> <br />Photo by <a href='/u/dave-wachter//105824164'>Dave Wachter</a>.
Ahhhh, not this time! Going for the whipper on Dav...
Drew Cummings, running up Goliath reviewing beta.  He just got the send last month.
Drew Cummings, running up Goliath reviewing beta. ...
On a beautiful fall day.
On a beautiful fall day.
MatthewNM on the lower portion of Goliath
MatthewNM on the lower portion of Goliath
Eric Whitbeck racing the light up Goliath
Eric Whitbeck racing the light up Goliath
Goliath two-up. September 2013.
Goliath two-up. September 2013.
Daniel cranks for a hard-earned evening send of Goliath. September 2013.
Daniel cranks for a hard-earned evening send of Go...
goliath
goliath
Drew catching some air on a frosty day at the tower.
Drew catching some air on a frosty day at the towe...
Fabulous exposure. July 2014.
Fabulous exposure. July 2014.
goliath
goliath
Ahhhhhh, DAMN! After about 40 feet of air (that's a short one! He took bigger while working the route). He later did send about 3 weeks later.
Ahhhhhh, DAMN! After about 40 feet of air (that's ...
COME ON!!!!!
COME ON!!!!!
Unknown climber "Dan" or "Ken" on Goliath over Labor Day Weekend, 2013
Unknown climber "Dan" or "Ken" on Goliath over Lab...
Going for the red-point on David (1st pitch of Goliath). <br /> <br />Photo by <a href='/u/dave-wachter//105824164'>Dave Wachter</a>.
Going for the red-point on David (1st pitch of Gol...
Keep going!
Keep going!
A striking line for sure.
A striking line for sure.
You got it! COME ON!
You got it! COME ON!
Eric Whitbeck loosing his race with the shadow as he passes the mid anchor of Goliath
Eric Whitbeck loosing his race with the shadow as ...
Workin' <a href='/v/goliath/105858880'>Goliath</a>.
Workin' Goliath.
Comments on Goliath Add Comment
Show which comments
By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Dec 10, 2006
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

This is easily the best sport climb in New Mexico. This is the sort of route that makes you want to get better, just so that you can climb this route. If you dislike rope drag, its useful to bring some long slings. One for the midway anchor and two for the first bolts after the midway anchor. These bolts are somewhat off the natural climbing line, but with long slings, you can clip them without having to do any extra moves.

By 1Eric Rhicard
Mar 24, 2007

It might be the most aesthetic line in the southwest. It is also a great climb with a little of everything but jams.

By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Jul 10, 2007
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

I noticed that DTP's description (and other guidbooks) indicate its 12c to the first anchor. I always felt like that was a pretty light-duty 12c, but I did it many, many times, so I had it ruthlessly wired. Anyway, I bring it up because I'm really bored and hoping to stir up some controversy. I think its more like 12b.

By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jul 10, 2007

Hmm, since I feel like killing time as well. I went with 12c for the first pitch because I felt that for the onsight it was harder than Shipwrecked. While the moves aren't that difficult, the sequence and holds were tough for me to figure out, where shipwrecked is more straight forward pulling. Maybe I was just climbing better / better conditions when I onsighted Shipwrecked, then the weekend I worked on Goliath.

I also heard that something broke off the arete, leaving a better foothold for the crux, in recent years. But I was never on it before this occurred.

I think the 1/2 pitch to Mad Hatter is easier than the 12c listed in the guide (12b) and the 1/2 pitch for Zee Wicked is harder than the 11c listed in the guide (12a).

By Matthew NM
Feb 3, 2009

Yeah, at the "crux" of the lower half a little plate broke off the arete leaving a half-inch horizontal edge where there used to be just a smear. I had done the route many, many times before this happend and even after having it ruthlessly wired, this change made it feel quite a bit easier

By Jarred Cleerdin
Jun 13, 2010

This is just one of the reasons I love NM.

By Eric Whitbeck
Sep 1, 2012

Mono, I say the first pitch is between b and c and is the standard for sport 12 in nm.