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The Christian Brothers
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Am I Evil? S 
Asterisk, The T 
Attic Antics T 
Barbecue The Pope S 
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Blue Balls T 
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Catherine Finds An Edge S 
Charlie's Chimney T 
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Culture of Fear S 
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left side of the Beard, The T 
Little Indian Princess S 
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Mark Cartier Memorial (MCM) Route , The S 
New Testament T 
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Old Testament T 
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right side of the Beard, The T 
Ring of Fire S 
Rude Boys S 
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Self Preservation Variation T 
Shoes of the Fisherman T 
Smooth Boy S 
That First Step S 
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Toys In The Attic T 
Unknown 10c S 
Via Dolorosa S 
Wartley's Revenge T 

Golgotha 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Alan Watts, Mel Johnson, June 1981
Page Views: 799
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Nov 27, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Seasonal Raptor Closure 2012 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This mixed line begins with excellent thin crack climbing up a left-leaning open book, culminating in a sinister face-climbing crux past two ancient & well spaced bolts, before joining the anchor atop Barbecue the Pope. The crack provides its own warm-up, starting with 5.8-ish stemming, and getting progressively harder before peetering out altogether. A good stemming rest below the crux provides an opportunity to scope out the difficulties--awkward moves up a shallow arete with rounded feet. A long reach is helpful here, but small intermediates provide options for climbers of all sizes. Once you reach the large horizontal pocket, traverse left and finish up relatively easy crimps.

"Golgotha" is the name of the hill where Christ was crucified.


Location 

Climbs the obvious open-book immediately right of Barbecue the Pope on the Testament Slab. Begins up "The Left Side of the Beard", before branching out left.


Protection 

Gear to 1", mostly blue & yellow TCU's. The crack eats up nuts if you're so inclined. 2 Bolts & a 2 bolt anchor. The Watts guide gives this an "R" rating. The gear in the crack is bomber & plentiful, but the bolts at the top are fairly spaced, and they look pretty old.



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By Max Tepfer
From: Bend, OR
Dec 14, 2011

Obviously it'll be (and is) different for different people, but I found the gear to be pretty good and never felt run-out. (some of the gear was tiny, but it was bomber) Additionally, the bolts, while not new and shiny, weren't all that bad either in terms of quality or spacing. (maybe they've been updated?) Great route.

By Mike Rowley
From: Boise, Idaho
Feb 20, 2012

Gear on this good if you are comfortable with small gear. I think I only used 1 or 2 cams. Lots of small but bomber nuts! The bolts have not been replaced as of 2/12, but they will hold. I tested the top bolt from the anchors :-(

By Amy Ohran
From: Bend, Or
Feb 25, 2012

Fun climbing and not at all PG...just put some directional pieces in the first 25', the gear is bomber.

By James E King
From: Bend, OR
Mar 9, 2013

The smallest nut I placed on this was a #1 or #2 Metolius, so not terribly small. The crack is not run-out, and the bolts are in fine condition. I fell on the top bolt a couple times. Fun route!