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This is a fun and asthetic 600 feet of climbing up a neat feature.
P1 is low angle and you can save a lot of time by soloing/simul-climbing to the start of the difficulties.
P2 is a full 60m of WI 4 to the best stances (right or left of flow) and....
P3 is about the same difficulty and either 50m straight up to fixed gear on the right wall or 60+ m taking the steep left finish if in shape.
While Roberts' book suggests a walk off, better to rap the route. Fixed gear on climber's right lets you get down quickly w/double 60s.
This climb is in the huge, left-facing corner a few hundred meters past Second Gully. You can't miss it. The approach is just over 1/2 mile from the parking area.
BETA PHOTO: Goldrush on 1/3/2009.
Goldrush in 1998.
Standing in front of Goldrush.
BETA PHOTO: Goldrush, 12/3/10.
Goldrush, December 2010.
P1 - December 2011.
Starting P3 - December 2011.
BETA PHOTO: Taken Jan. 2nd, 2012.
|By Jesse Morehouse|
Jun 5, 2008
An excellent line. If the left hand finish is in, do it! Can get baked down low as that gets a lot of sun. Up towards the top of P2 look at the rock on the wall of the large diehedral you are climbing and you'll appreciate the route's name much more.
Definitely rap the thing.
|By Rob Schichtel|
From: Cortez, CO
Jan 3, 2009
Tried to climb on 1/3/2009. Bottom of P1 very thin to nonexistent. Need some rock pro. Probably will get better after this last snow.
From: Durango, Colorado
Jul 9, 2011
Great route! Depending on conditions, can provide anything from fun mixed to fat ice. Seems like most of the other popular routes in the area area getting equipped with bolted belay/rap anchors, be outstanding to see the manky fixed gear removed and bolts added to this one as well. It is possible to walk off, although not that fun...rapping seems to be an easier descent.
From: Durango, CO
Nov 19, 2011
Eric Dixon and I replaced some of the anchors on this today. The first anchor is still the rat's nest it always has been (3 tri-cams a hex and a piton). I personally have never used this anchor as I just combine pitch 1 & 2 into a 60m pitch. The 2nd pitch now has two nice and shiny bolts. When rapping, you can make it to the ground from this anchor with 2 60m ropes. The old fixed anchor came out with surprising ease.
The third anchor that is in the gully is now two bolts instead of one...but we broke our drill bit, so it's now 2 tied off bolts instead of one. Have fun out there.
Edit:1/9/2012 Anchors are all updated with chain and anchor in gully is no longer tied off. It now has two hangers and chain.