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 ADVANCED
Teddy Bear Slabs
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Climber Jumped Over the Roof, The TR 
Goldirocks and the 3 Bulges T 
Hey Diddle Diddle, The Crack in the Middle TR 
Humpty Bumpty TR 
Papa Bear TR 

Goldirocks and the 3 Bulges 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Eric Ivey, Jon Ruland, Jen Ivey
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 567
Submitted By: Boodge Nomchompski on Feb 1, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Description 

Surmounts 3 bulges using 3 different skill sets, and follows an obvious weakness of cracks and bulges

Location 

15 ft right of the gully.

Protection 

Good but difficult to find gear placements up to 2 inches. Can be TRed as well. Not recommended as a first gear lead at the grade.


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By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 1, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

this route was a very pleasant surprise. as a warning to leaders, though, this probably isn't a 3-star route ground-up. it's the movement of the climb that's really fun, but the gear's sketchy.
By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 9, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

i climbed this again today and i changed my mind about the PG13 rating. it seems safe to me, you just have to look closely for the good gear.