As you walk around the cliff corner from Blues Riff you'll see Goldfinger on your left, a series of discontinuous fingerish cracks going up and right on a slightly overhanging wall. I heard Bachar was dusting holds off with his hands during the passive pro, onsight first ascent.
Keep walking past Blues Riff, and as you walk uphill you will see an obvious right-leaning crack system on the wall on your left. There's a direct variation that's around 12c.
Small (to 1" or so), wires work great.
pumpy to place gear
|By Michael Schneiter|
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Jun 4, 2009
If you don't like giving beta then you shouldn't make route contributions. MP is a community resource so a decent approach description would be a good place to start. Thanks for at least updating that part. However, it's kind of funny that you say the climb is on your left as you approach it because there wouldn't be any climbs on your right, since to your right would be downhill.
Jul 20, 2009
Rely more on stoppers than cams. They're super solid and easier to place.
From: Oakland, Ca
Jul 27, 2010
that may be the lamest climbing video i've ever seen
|By Nick Stayner|
From: The Magic City
Jun 18, 2012
Does anyone know if you can use a 70m to TR/rap this route? I can't remember...
From: berkeley, ca
Oct 8, 2012
Nick, yes you can just barely use a 70m. you may have to use the pedestal on the right.
Michael, as you turn the corner past blues riff, the obvious climb will be on the wall on your left. there are climbs to the right, not downhill- i think most people can figure that out.
Also, there is a direct start to this climb that goes at about 12c.