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Phobos/Diemos Cliff
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L to R R to L Alpha
Blues Riff T 
Deimos T 
Easter Island S 
Goldfinger T 
Phobos T 
Phobos Start Variation T 

Goldfinger 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: John Bachar, July 1981
Page Views: 3,029
Submitted By: Anson on Aug 18, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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manage the pump well, don't worry about the ratin...

Description 

As you walk around the cliff corner from Blues Riff you'll see Goldfinger on your left, a series of discontinuous fingerish cracks going up and right on a slightly overhanging wall. I heard Bachar was dusting holds off with his hands during the passive pro, onsight first ascent.

Location 

Keep walking past Blues Riff, and as you walk uphill you will see an obvious right-leaning crack system on the wall on your left. There's a direct variation that's around 12c.

Protection 

Small (to 1" or so), wires work great.


Photos of Goldfinger Slideshow Add Photo
pumpy to place gear
pumpy to place gear
long too
long too

Comments on Goldfinger Add Comment
Show which comments
By Michael Schneiter
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Jun 4, 2009

If you don't like giving beta then you shouldn't make route contributions. MP is a community resource so a decent approach description would be a good place to start. Thanks for at least updating that part. However, it's kind of funny that you say the climb is on your left as you approach it because there wouldn't be any climbs on your right, since to your right would be downhill.
By C Miller
Administrator
Jun 7, 2009

Goldfinger on Youtube -
.
By chummer
Jul 20, 2009

Rely more on stoppers than cams. They're super solid and easier to place.
By snowhazed
From: Oakland, Ca
Jul 27, 2010

that may be the lamest climbing video i've ever seen
By Nick Stayner
From: Billings, MT
Jun 18, 2012

Does anyone know if you can use a 70m to TR/rap this route? I can't remember...
By Anson
From: berkeley, ca
Oct 8, 2012

Nick, yes you can just barely use a 70m. you may have to use the pedestal on the right.
Michael, as you turn the corner past blues riff, the obvious climb will be on the wall on your left. there are climbs to the right, not downhill- i think most people can figure that out.
Also, there is a direct start to this climb that goes at about 12c.
By Christopher Barlow
Jun 2, 2014
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Super good, long pitch; probably one of the better single-pitch cracks in the park. The recommended rack seems a little vague/sparse, especially for someone trying to onsight. While I'm sure one could protect this pitch adequately with nothing bigger than a 1" piece, it would probably require quadruples of cams from .5-1" to have comfortably spaced pro. Instead, I'd recommend a double set of cams up to hand-sized (#2 Camalot or equivalent) and possibly triples of the tips/tight fingers range (blue-gray Camalots). There are certainly spots that a big hands piece could go in.