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The Fang
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Goldfinger 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 95'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Mark Rolofson(?)
Page Views: 1,269
Submitted By: Jonathan Siegrist on Jun 19, 2007

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Enjoying the excellent 5.10+ start of Goldfinger. ...

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Description 

This lengthy route climbs the center of the immaculate stone to the right of Stiletto. A rock climber with even the slightest attraction towards aesthetics will be magnetically drawn to this line.

Climb through a ~20 foot band of choss to a small ledge and your first bolt. Continue up the just off-vertical face on five star stone for ~55 ft, moving between good edges and flakes (10d). Clip the bolt above the small roof from a slopping rail, then catch your breath before a series of thin holds and engaging footwork (13a). Continue directly into a puzzling 12+ finish to the only big hold on the route, exhale. Classic.

Protection 

9 QDs, 2 bolt anchor. Small-medium gear for choss at bottom is optional.


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By Spencer Anderson
From: Fort Collins, CO
May 29, 2012

Anyone know the secret to the upper section? I got past the crux (according to the guide) but can't figure out the puzzling 12+ section after the jug sidepull.