Type: Trad, 125 ft (38 m)
FA: Karl Kelley
Page Views: 5,319 total · 24/month
Shared By: Vince MacMillan on Feb 20, 2006
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

You & This Route


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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: 2024 Raptor Avoidance Areas! Limited Toilet Facilities! DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

GoldenEye is located on the far west end of the south face of the Technicolor Wall. It is easiest to approach this route from the campsite on the valley floor as it is a long trudge across the slope from the nearest, Unnamed routes to the east. Whichever way you get there, the hike will be well worth it: a full 36+ meters of burly Canyonlands crack climbing.

The route starts out with rattly fingers, goes to finger stacks and thin hands, then a fairly long section of decent hands. Catch a rest in the wide-hands section before things go back to thin hands and finger stacks, with a 20 foot crux of steep, rattly-finger, cooler-than-Bond laybacking to the anchors. Arrive (shaking and stirred) at the perfectly positioned anchors.

Protection Suggest change

Enough .5 through 3 Camalots (i.e. .75" to 3.5") to make you feel safe, emphasis on .5, .75, and #1 Camalots. Keep at least one .5 Camalot or 1.25 TechFriend in reserve for the steeeeep crux.

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